"Dots" on CHS50 negatives (35mm)

Photux · 2011-08-31T12:47:18+00:00

Hallo liebe Forengemeinde, nachdem mich der Orwo NP20 in Rodinal 1+40 regelrecht "umgehauen" hatte, wollte ich mal einen (meiner Hoffnung nach) ähnlichen Fi...

Photux

Hello everyone, After the Orwo NP20 in Rodinal 1+40 absolutely blew me away, I wanted to try a film that I hoped would be similar: the Adox CHS 50. I’m also quite impressed with the emulsion itself in terms of tonal range and fine grain/detail (in fact, I’d happily chuck my stock of APX 100 straight in the bin). Unfortunately, there are still two issues with the film: Firstly, the base is still very slightly pink in colour. Lacking experience with this film, I don’t know whether this is a problem or can be ignored. I’m assuming the latter. Above all, however, I have fine dots across the entire film in the negative scans, which at first look like dust. However, I don’t think it is dust, as a) dust usually looks different on the scans and b) I had thoroughly cleaned the scanner beforehand. I’ve also noticed that these ‘dots’ seem to be on the base film (even in areas with no exposure). I’ve attached two image sections where the problem is quite clearly visible (especially in homogeneous areas). These are 1:1 crops from scans at 1200dpi and 2400dpi respectively (if I’m not mistaken). In the second one, I’ve increased the contrast for better visibility. The process used in detail: 9 minutes’ development in Rodinal 1+50, tilting the tank continuously for the first 30 seconds and then once every 30 seconds. Stopped in water for 2–3 minutes, then fixed for approx. 9 minutes in Superfix 1+9 and rinsed thoroughly. Finally, rinsed with plenty of distilled water and Mirasol 1+400. I would be grateful for any advice as to whether this is a processing error on my part or possibly a problem with the film itself. Regards Photux

MarcS

Hello everyone, After the Orwo NP20 in Rodinal 1+40 really blew me away, I wanted to try a film that I hoped would be similar: the Adox CHS 50. I’m also quite impressed with the emulsion itself in terms of tonal range and fine grain/rich detail (in fact, I’d happily chuck my stock of APX 100 straight in the bin). Unfortunately, there are still two issues with the film: Firstly, the base is still very slightly tinted pink. Lacking experience with this film, I don’t know whether this is a problem or can be ignored. I’m assuming the latter. Above all, however, I have fine dots across the entire film in the negative scans, which at first look like dust. However, I don’t think it is dust, as a) dust usually looks different on the scans and b) I had thoroughly cleaned the scanner beforehand. I’ve also noticed that these ‘dots’ seem to be on the base film (even in areas with no exposure). I’ve attached two image sections where the problem is quite clearly visible (especially in homogeneous areas). These are 1:1 crops from scans at 1200dpi and 2400dpi respectively (if I’m not mistaken). In the second one, I’ve increased the contrast for better visibility. The process used in detail: 9 minutes’ development in Rodinal 1+50, tilting the tank continuously for the first 30 seconds and then once every 30 seconds. Stopped for 2–3 minutes in water, then fixed for approx. 9 minutes in Superfix 1+9 and rinsed thoroughly. Finally, rinsed with plenty of distilled water and Mirasol 1+400. I would be grateful in advance for any advice as to whether this is a processing error on my part or possibly a problem with the film itself. Regards Photux

...this issue has been discussed in the forum before... in my case, it was down to the fixer (which was a bit old)... but fixing for 9 minutes seems a bit long to me; 4 minutes should be enough. Regards Marc

Tandemfahren

Hi, I reckon it just looks like ordinary dried-on dust on your negative. And God’s film in the bin, my dear fellow, that’s punishable by stoning! Jehovah, Jehovah! – (and please do tell me where your bin is!) I’ve only got about twenty rolls of APX 120 left.) A 9-minute fix is too long, yes, but it probably won’t do any harm. The pink colour doesn’t matter. Regards, Frank

AchimBauer

Hi Photux, I’ve no idea what that could be! I’m only replying because I’m curious to know how you can get hold of an Orwo NP 20. I thought it had gone the same way as the dinosaurs. Best regards, Achim

ulf

Hello, I think that’s a bit much for dust. Dust should definitely be visible on the film in harsh, side lighting. Every now and then, people report here or on other forums (I can’t quite remember which) about problems with contaminants in tap water. That seems to me to be a possible explanation here. It’s also conceivable that these ‘particles’ stick to one film and not to another, or only occur sporadically at all. Regards Ulf

Photux

First of all, thanks for the replies! MarcS: I’ll try using fresh fixer next time. I use Superfix Plus, 1+9, and usually prepare half a litre, which I then use for 2–3 rolls of 35mm films. Four minutes should actually be enough, but I’ve had films that weren’t fixed properly before, so I prefer to leave the film in the fixer a bit longer. Haven’t had any problems so far. Tandemfahren: I don’t have any APX in 120 at all – but when the APX100 in 135 was on sale as a professional film, I stocked up straight away. ;-) Achim B.: If you can get hold of NP20, it’s usually on eBay and with an expiry date of 1992. I once bought a few rolls of it as SL cartridges (for my Penti), and they were absolutely flawless. Ulf: I’m also pretty sure that’s not dust. It could be a problem with the water. But there’s not much I could do about that. General question: Is it advisable to pre-rinse the CHS50 or not? I’ve never done that before, as it worked fine without it. Best regards Photux

MarcS

First of all, thanks for the replies! General question: Is it advisable to pre-rinse the CHS50 or not? I’ve never done that before, as it worked fine without it. Best regards, Photux

...it’s recommended for sheet films. I’ve tried with and without pre-wetting on 120 and 35mm... but it makes no difference. Regards Marc