Jan_hh
Hello everyone,
As I’m new here, I’d like to start by introducing myself briefly. My name is Jan, I’m from Hamburg, I’m 25 years old, and I started taking analogue photos again a few days ago.
Since this idea naturally – how could it be otherwise – came to me on a Sunday afternoon, I dug my old Minolta SrT101 out of the box, dashed halfway across town
and actually managed to get hold of some black-and-white film. Admittedly, it was a ‘tinted’ 400-speed film for the C41 process from Kodak.
I took the pictures to be developed, was delighted with the result, and now to my actual problem ;-)
A day later I thought to myself, hmmm... I could always set up a darkroom again. So off I went that evening, picked up a Durst enlarger
(C35), along with a whole load of photographic paper (Ilford, grades 1–4).
Now, when I make prints from the Kodak negative, they unfortunately look rather flat compared to the ones from the lab, even at grade 4...
Could this be down to the ‘colour negatives’? I get the impression that this effect doesn’t occur with my Ilford FP4, which I developed entirely myself?!
Or could it be down to the photographic paper, which must be at least 30 years old?!
And one very last question: there was a yellow DuKa lamp included – is that even suitable for B&W paper? I used to have a red one?!
Many thanks in advance for your replies.
Tandemfahren
Hi Jan,
Welcome to the club.
Regarding your questions: The Kodak film isn’t really the right choice. If you’re going for C41, you’re better off with Ilford – it’s easier to develop yourself.
The Kodak is designed for automatic colour printers.
30-year-old photographic paper is rubbish. Or perhaps for some strange experiments? I finished school 30 years ago; back then ‘Ideal’ was on the radio – ‘Polar bears never have to cry’ and all that,
and ‘Interesting facts, interesting facts about Erlangen’ – those were the days...
You’d be better off getting some Variokontrast paper from 2011 – you’ll be amazed!
As photographic paper ages, it loses both contrast (which can be compensated for to a certain extent) and maximum black density, and that’s fatal.
A yellow dux lamp? For VC paper, you’ll need an orange one or, if necessary (i.e. it would have to be stated on the paper box), a red one.
What sort of enlarger is that? Can it handle VC? Apparently there are still a few unsellable old bangers out there that don’t even have a filter drawer? How do you filter?
Have fun playing with the silver and congratulations on your blessed Hamburg, where someone determined enough can get a ROLL OF FILM on a Sunday afternoon! Here in lovely Tutzing, someone like you, even on a Tuesday, will get either a blank stare or a question in return when asking for a FILM – adhesive FILM, photographic FILM, which one? If you’re lucky, someone might explain how photography works! I’ve had that happen too!
Wishing you lovely light,
Frank
Jan_hh
Hey Frank,
Thanks so much for your quick reply :-)
So I think I’ll just pop out and get a new pack of photographic paper.
As for the film, I’ll probably go back to Ilford’s FP4Plus in future.
As for filters, I’ve got both options. The enlarger has a filter drawer and a colour mixing head, but I’m still on the
lookout for another enlarger that will also let me shoot medium format.
Best regards
Tandemfahren
Hi Jan,
I’ve got a spare 6x7 colour enlarger. An LPL, in fact – I’d just need to have a rummage to see what masks are included; I think 6x7 and KB.
You certainly can’t go wrong with FP4...
Have fun
Frank
TR
"Tandemfahren" is right about the paper. As a beginner, you really should only use fresh material to minimise any mistakes as much as possible, or to avoid making the process of looking for them a real nightmare. I don’t understand why people are always talking about "experiments" – what sort of experiments are these if the image has a gradient that’s far too soft or shows absolutely no flaws at all? I might keep such old paper for work with lith or document developer. Please also use fresh developer for your (initially) fresh films. At least the developer hardly costs anything.
Jan_hh
Hi T.R,
Thanks a lot for your comment too. If I may ask a rather ‘silly’ question, what did you mean by ‘Lith / document developer’?!
I think a bit more detail would be interesting :-)
I’m going out today to get some new photographic paper.
On my last visit there, I saw two different paper manufacturers: one was Ilford, which I’m familiar with, and the other was “Work”. Does anyone here know this paper?
If so, what have your experiences been like with it?
Dear Frank,
The enlarger sounds interesting. Which LPL is it? I’d be very grateful if you could send me a private message with a bit more information, including your asking price, of course O_O
Wishing you all a lovely weekend :-)
Tandemfahren
Hi Jan,
"Work" is fixed-grade paper. I don’t use it; I don’t want to put it down, but with VC you’ll need at least a box per size, not to mention the other drawbacks.
Ilford MGIV is, in my opinion, what you need. Or check with the forum host (or wherever) for the new MCP, for example. Or...
@T.R.: for example, exactly that sort of experiment...
Jan, you’ll get a PM.
Golden light
Frank
TeeGee
The "Work" is probably the Tetenal Work.
The ADOX Easy Print is good value, and I really like using it too; after all, I haven’t been developing paper for very long.
By the way: couldn’t you upgrade your Durst with a suitable condenser for medium format? I’ve got two of those condensers lying around here. Then you wouldn’t need a new enlarger.
Jan_hh
Hi TeeGee,
I went and picked up the "Work" film yesterday just to give it a go – thanks for the tip :-)
Thanks for the offer, but unfortunately one of the major drawbacks of my enlarger is that I can’t rotate the head, so I can’t perform any "larger" exposures...
I just took a few retro shots yesterday for fun :-)
And I’m quite happy with the 50s look (it’s the ‘Work’ paper, by the way)
Tandemfahren
Hi Jan,
Why don’t you see if you can rotate the column? Then you could enlarge the base (even if that means I have to keep my LPL-Mästi).
Make sure to clamp the base board down or weigh it down, of course.
Your thumbnail is perhaps a tad on the small side...
Do you have my private message?
May the light be with you
Frank
Jan_hh
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Oh dear, I can see it too :-)
Right, second attempt :-)
TR
If I may ask quite bluntly, what did you mean by ‘lith / document developer’?!
I think a bit more detail would be interesting :-)
Hello. You’ll find plenty of information on the term “lith developer” via a search engine (note that this type of developer only works with certain papers [old baryta works almost always / the old GDR Orwo paper, for example, is very well suited to it]).
Document developer works 1–2 gradients harder, so it has a ‘normalising’ effect on old (and therefore often too soft) paper. At least, that’s the only way I’ve managed to get decent blacks on 20-year-old Wephota paper. As a beginner, though, you should master the basics first before getting involved in things like this.
Urnes
For Lithprinting, just have a look here at
Wolfgang Moersch's site – you'll find some sample images there too.
Best regards, Sven.
