hfa
For an ‘alternative’ process, I need SW slides with a flat gradation and the highest possible Dmax.
I have a collection of various graphic films in varying states of preservation, X-ray films and so on, but I’m not keen on running long test series.
Generally speaking, I work with out-of-focus parameters.
Which developer (at approximately what dilution) offers the most promising starting point?
Which graphic film is affordable these days?
Many thanks for any ideas!
hfa
Urnes
Which process is it, then?
Regards, Sven.
hfa
Copper intaglio – photogravure; but as far as my question is concerned, the rest of the process is irrelevant.
I just want to make the most of my old halftone films.
Urnes
I see. I was just wondering which process requires a positive. The copper plate is exposed to it and then etched, isn’t it? Not that I can help you with your problem, I’m just asking out of interest.
I’d probably be most likely to try it with X-ray film. Development times range from 6 to 10 minutes and are done by eye under red light.
Regards, Sven.
hfa
For more information, including details of the process, visit www.photogravure.com
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My question is about a developer that meets the requirements mentioned at the start.
For example, the combination of Rollei ATo 2.1 film and Rollei Low Contrast developer works well.
However, the total cost per sheet (30x40 cm) comes to 10 euros, and if you then find that the contrast isn’t right...
There should be a warning printed on it: Caution: Photography puts your finances at risk, leads to homelessness and starving children!
This has been the case in other industries for a long time
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Urnes
X-ray film is a halftone film. Unlike lithographic or line art film, you don’t need to gently tap it with a special developer.
Otherwise, I’d suggest having a look at Spur. They were the ones who made graphic film with a soft developer acceptable back in the day.
Regards, Sven.
hfa
...that's a good idea for now, thanks
h.
KlausWehner
If you could let us know which films you have available and what level of contrast you’re aiming for, we’re sure we can find a solution.
Options could include, for example, two-bath development or even bench-top development.
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Best regards,
Klaus
hfa
If you let us know which films you have available and what level of contrast you’re aiming for, we’re sure to find a solution.
hfa
Klaus,
The Dmax should be around 2.5, with the gradation as flat as possible, roughly corresponding to 2–14 on the Stouffer scale. I have various quantities and storage conditions:
Orwo FN 5
Orwo FN 60
Wephota NP 22
Lighthouse Printfilm
Ortho Litho from Photo Warehouse
Rollei AT0 2.1
The latter is still available and easy to control with the developers offered alongside it, but the price of these combinations is completely unacceptable.
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Best regards,
Hendrik
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KlausWehner
Hi Hendrik,
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Your requirements (D max 2.5 and a contrast ratio of 1:16) are probably best met using a hard-developed halftone film.
I would choose the NP 22 and develop it hard.
A diluted paper developer might work quite well for this.
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Lith films will not be able to reproduce the desired contrast range.
Soft development of special films is achieved by reducing the maximum density (below 2.00).
The films are simply not fully developed. Excess silver is removed during fixing.
The limited ability to reproduce normal contrast is retained. Typical for these films is a contrast range of 1:8, meaning they can reproduce 3 exposure stops.
You can check this easily with your grey scale chart.
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You might be able to achieve slightly more with a two-bath developer.
I looked into this topic in more detail some time ago.
However, I have no practical experience with the specialist films mentioned.
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You won’t get by without doing some experiments of your own.
If you’d like to try a two-bath developer, you can get in touch with me.
I’d be happy to provide you with some of my chemicals.
Unfortunately, I don’t have time for my own experiments at the moment. But I might be able to help you.
I looked into this topic in depth some time ago.
However, I have no experience with the specialist films mentioned.
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Best regards
Klaus
hfa
...well, that’s a start, at least
I’ll give it a go and get back to you or let you know if necessary
Thanks a lot!
h
KlausWehner
I’m not entirely sure what film is actually in the NP-22 box. It might be Foma film.
It’s doubtful whether you’ll actually achieve a maximum density of 2.5 with it.
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I would proceed as follows:
Cut a small piece from each type of film you have available and split it into two pieces.
Expose one piece to maximum exposure (perhaps using a torch), whilst the second piece remains unexposed.
Fully develop both test pieces in a (diluted) paper developer.
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This will give you a good overview of which films come anywhere near meeting your requirements and which ones can be ruled out straight away.
The unexposed piece will give you a valuable indication of the base fog.
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Let me know how it goes when you get a chance.
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Best regards
Klaus
Andre7878
Hello, my question concerns the intermediate bath. Unfortunately, dichromate of potassium is no longer available. What alternatives are there? After all, I only need a few grams. My aim is to develop Silvermask roll film in a Mamiya RC67 as slides.
Andre7878
Black-and-white slide film development
