Timur
Hello,
I urgently need a new fixer, but Tetenal Superfix Plus in the 1-litre bottle is unfortunately sold out. I’ve always used Superfix up to now, but I’m currently considering switching to Rollei RXN Fix Neutral "11/89" 1l. Can you recommend this fixer? I’d like to use it for processing Agfa MCP, Ilford HP5+ and Adox/Forte PW14. Or are there better alternatives at Foto-Impex in terms of archival stability, yield, etc.? I’d be very grateful for a quick reply, as I’ve got quite a few films waiting for development.
Many thanks,
Timur
-Tobi-
Well, I use http://www.fotoimpex.de/shop/fotochemie/schwarzweisschemie/stopp-und-fixierbaeder/adolux-Adofix-expressfixer-hohe-konz-1liter.html and I’m very happy with it. I’ve used it to fix all sorts of films.
Best regards,
Tobias
Andreas_23
Hello!
I also use the ADOX fixer and am very happy with it.
Best regards,
Andreas
MirkoBoeddecker
Hello,
I urgently need a new fixer, but Tetenal Superfix Plus in the 1-litre bottle is unfortunately sold out. I’ve always used Superfix up to now, but I’m currently considering switching to Rollei RXN Fix Neutral "11/89" 1l. Can you recommend this fixer? I’d like to use it for processing Agfa MCP, Ilford HP5+ and Adox/Forte PW14. Or are there better alternatives at Foto-Impex in terms of archival stability, yield, etc.? I’d be very grateful for a quick reply, as I’ve got quite a few films waiting for development.
Many thanks
Timur
Timur,
RXN is a pH-NEUTRAL fixer.
RXN is particularly good for people who place great importance on archival stability and wish to optimise rinsing times.
It requires you to use an acidic stop bath, which is not recommended for some films.
As a replacement for Superfix, it is therefore only suitable with certain limitations. Adofix is a closer alternative.
Best regards,
Mirko
michael-kielgmxnet
Hello Timur,
Mirko has already covered the essentials: RXN is specifically designed for paper processing; with baryta papers in particular, the advantage is that the paper felt does not soak up the acid, which shortens the rinsing times compared to an acidic fixer. Since you mentioned that you also work with baryta paper, I would therefore recommend it. As PE paper doesn’t absorb the acid, it doesn’t really matter what you use in that case.
For processing film, however, I would also use an acidic rapid fixer; that way, you can do without a stop bath. It doesn’t really matter which fixer you use; I don’t think the differences are that significant these days. I’ve got used to Agfa Agefix and am happy with it. For photographic paper, however, I now only use Rollei RXN.
There might be an alternative to the RXN: Moersch produces an alkaline fixer. I’m not aware, however, of any advantages or disadvantages it has over a neutral fixer.
Timur
Blimey, after two or three years away from the darkroom (though I’ve still been developing film very regularly), I’m back on the forum and have come across my old posts. Thanks for all the replies!
To wrap up, I’d like to say that I’ve been very happy with the RXN for film development throughout this whole period. After 2–3 minutes, the film is clear and I have no bad feeling after rinsing (Ilford method with slightly longer processing times). The yield is very high; I usually dispose of the solution after six months and 30–40 films, just to be on the safe side.
For paper, I’m just starting to use ADOX MCC again, so I’ll naturally be using RXN for that as well. The solution should last forever if you don’t have that much throughput, right?
Regards, Timur
P.S.: Can you recommend a positive developer for the ADOX MCC? I’m leaning towards ADOX Neutol NE. I’d like the image tone to be neutral. Value for money is also quite important, as I’ll be making prints up to 100cm x 150cm.
piu58
> Value for money is also quite important, as I’ll be making prints up to 100cm x 150cm.
The developer is always an order of magnitude cheaper than the paper. It’s worth choosing the developer that gives the best results, regardless of the cost.
?
I quite like using Neutol, but it really depends on the look you’re going for.
Sandra
Timur, Moersch ECO 4812 is brilliant. I can highly recommend it. It’s economical, powerful and produces a neutral black; it creates a wonderful, nuanced finish, and it’s environmentally friendly too (you can safely pour the used working solution down the drain). That’s my tip :)
Morte
I also developed MCC in Neutol NE (as well as in Neutol WA) – and didn’t achieve particularly deep blacks. With Adotol Konstant, the results were – and still are – quite different. Rich blacks, a wonderful image tone. That’s why I’m sticking with this chemistry. I’ve always prepared the solutions according to the instructions. Adotol Konstant is also inexpensive and lasts a long time.
Timur
Thanks for the tips! I’m going to try out and compare the Moersch Eco and Adotol Konstant, as well as Calbe N113 (which is cheaper and identical to Adotol). I find it odd that Neutol doesn’t produce rich blacks. I’ve still got an unopened bottle of that, so I’ll give that a go again too ; )
