Which chemicals?

Saishi · 2010-03-28T14:14:10+00:00

Ach Matthias, das ist doch so einfach: Eos, die Schwester der Selene etc.pp EOS, das electro-optical System, das Anfang der 1980er von Canon als hauseige...

Saishi

Hello everyone on the forum. I’ve been getting into analogue photography through my school since September. I’ve now managed to get hold of an enlarger at a reasonable price. So my question is: which chemicals are best suited for the following paper? Ilford MG 1M 10x15/100 I’m using AGFA APX 100 film. I’d like to develop it with TENTENAL Neofin Blaue. Can I then use the same fixer as for the paper? My enlarger is a Kaiser VCP 3502. My camera is a Canon EOS 10 Best regards, Matthias

cfb_de

So my question is, which chemical is best suited for the following paper? Ilford MG 1M 10x15/100

Hello Matthias, Any standard developer such as Eukobrom (liquid) or N113/Adotol (powder mix), or warm-tone developers such as Adotol Liquid WA (liquid), including special solutions such as blue-toning developers. I don’t know if the paper is suitable for lith printing; I haven’t tried it. However, given your question, it seems you’re not (yet) looking to produce a lith print.

I use AGFA APX 100 film. I would develop it with TENTENAL Neofin Blaue. Can I then use the same fixer as for the paper?

You can use the same fixer as for the paper. But: not the same batch! In other words, prepare one batch for film and another for paper.

My enlarger is a Kaiser VCP 3502. My camera is a Canon EOS 10

Both pieces of kit should produce reasonably good results :P Whatever the camera focuses too well, you can always mess up on the enlarger. With a 35mm enlarger, the lens is more important; above 13x18, you can see that the three-element lenses (Rogonar, Componar, Belar) aren’t all that great. You could, however, compensate for this on the shooting side with an EOS wide-angle lens that’s known to be just as bad :blink: Do you have a decent manual? If not: To approx.

bernhardmangelsgmxde

I’ve just seen that Franz was quicker off the mark... so, to recap: Pretty much any standard paper developer will do for MG. I’d recommend N113/Adotol Konstant or Moersch Eco 4812; both last quite a long time. I can’t say anything about Neofin Blaue, but it’ll probably be fine. I’ve had very good experiences with AM74 and Calbe A49 / Atomal 49. Apparently it works particularly well with Rodinal; I haven’t tried it yet, but I reckon it would be a bit too posh for me. Using the same fixer is fine, but not the same batch. So prepare two working solutions from the same concentrate.

Hello everyone on the forum. I’ve been getting into analogue photography through my school since September. I’ve now managed to get hold of an enlarger at a good price. So my question is, which chemicals are best suited for the following paper? Ilford MG 1M 10x15/100 I use AGFA APX 100 film. I would develop it with TENTENAL Neofin Blaue. Can I then use the same fixer as for the paper? My enlarger is a Kaiser VCP 3502. My camera is a Canon EOS 10 Best regards, Matthias

Saishi

Thanks for all the replies. I’ve gone and ordered a few straight away. One more question: Can you use a standard red light bulb in a lamp?

Wolfgg

Hi Matthias. It usually goes wrong. It depends on whether the coating on the bulb sufficiently dampens the colours that the paper reacts to, namely green and blue. If you already have a bulb like that, you can test it yourself. Simply take a small piece of photographic paper out of the box in the dark (with the bulb switched off), place it on the enlarger base plate, put a coin on top, switch the bulb on and wait 3 minutes, then switch the bulb off and develop/fix the paper as normal. The coin should now be invisible on the paper. It doesn’t hurt to carry out this test on ‘official’ enlarger lights as well, because the permitted exposure time depends on the type of setup, light reflection, etc. Regards, Wolfgang

Tandemfahren

Hi Matthias, NO! I mean, you can of course, but your paper will just end up ruined, hehe... On a student budget, it’s probably best to hunt around on eBay for those old Kaiser-Duka lamps (cheaper by the dozen) – those plastic ones with a 15W fridge bulb and an orange filter. Some papers require red filters, but that’s usually stated on the box. Always do a veiling test, especially with second-hand lamps! You can find out how to do this in any black-and-white photography textbook. The filters wear out over the years. You can get new ones, for example, from the host for next to nothing. The Merz book that Franz mentioned is brilliant; you might even find it in the city library. @Franz: the rose-fingered EOS is the goddess of the dawn, sister of Selene and Helios – you cultural philistine! nothing for ungood, Frank

Saishi

Thanks again for the quick replies. I found these on eBay. Does eBay sell them as well?

Tandemfahren

Hi again, Yes, that should work. An orange filter does make the image brighter, though – at least at the same power setting. Whether a second-hand bulb is the right choice is up to you. How long do you reckon it’ll last? As I said, my advice would be to go for Kaiser/Rowi etc. and new lenses. The veiling test described by Wolfgang is the simple version. To be absolutely sure, do this: expose a piece of photographic paper so that, after development, just a hint of density is visible. Take another piece and expose it in the same way, but cover an area in the middle with light-tight cardboard. Now cut the sheet in half, store one half in a paper safe (or otherwise protected from light) and expose the second half to the Dukalight for approx. 4 minutes – in all the places where the paper might be exposed during normal processing. Develop both halves together. The grey tones must be the same on both halves: the covered area should be paper-white and the edge areas should be the same shade of grey. Happy shooting Frank

cfb_de

@Franz:die, rosy-fingered EOS is the goddess of the dawn, sister of Selene and Helios – you’re a complete philistine!

Hi Frank, I’m well aware of that. That’s why I didn’t ask “who is EOS?” but “what is EOS?”. Reading difficulties? Need new glasses? :blink: SCNR, Franz

Tandemfahren

Hi Franz (is Matthias getting lost in his own thread right now?), hehe, whenever I try to be clever, it always backfires...the, the, the, the EOS... grumblegrumblebutit'struthengrumble :-) Best wishes Frank

Saishi

I've just picked up the bulb on eBay for a bargain price. I'll let you know if it worked out. Right, now could you please explain to me what the EOS is all about? :blink:

Tandemfahren

Oh Matthias, it’s so simple: Eos, the sister of Selene, etc. EOS, the electro-optical system introduced by Canon in the early 1980s as its in-house lens mount standard, a fully electronic AF system. Enables the efficient capture of outstanding photographs, whatever the sceptics may say (see cfb, the). EOS, the totally awesome camera, madly cool pics, mega-awesome, absolutely brilliant! All clear in Cambodia? Best wishes, Frank

Saishi

So, unfortunately, I missed my print today. The old red lamp we still had at home didn’t pass the test, unfortunately. I’ve now prepared the fixer and developer. My question is this: How long do the chemicals last in the original bottle, and how long do they last once mixed with water? Best regards, Matthias

bernhardmangelsgmxde

It really depends on exactly which chemicals you’ve ordered. Regards Bernhard

So, unfortunately, I missed my lamp today. The old red lamp we still had at home didn’t pass the test, unfortunately. I’ve now prepared the fixer and developer. My question is this: How long do the chemicals last in the original bottle, and how long do they last once mixed with water? Regards, Matthias

Saishi

Hey, so I've ordered TETENAL Eukobrom liquid (1 litre) and TETENAL Superfix Plus (1 litre). Best regards, Matthias

cfb_de

Hey, so I’ve ordered TETENAL Eukobrom liquid (1 litre) and TETENAL Superfix Plus (1 litre). Regards, Matthias

Eukobrom lasts almost forever; even the solution can still be used even if it turns brown. I once had to prepare 12 litres and used it up over almost two years without any problems. Oh, and by the way: I always cover my developer with Protectan (or lighter fluid). Superfix is more critical. If whitish-yellow precipitates appear in the concentrate or the solution starts to smell bad: bin it. However, the concentrate should also keep for at least a year. Best regards, Franz

bernhardmangelsgmxde

Superfix is a bit more of a risk. If you notice a whitish-yellow sediment forming in the concentrate, or if the solution starts to smell bad, throw it away. That said, the concentrate should keep for at least a year.

I’ve found Superfix Odourless to be fairly unproblematic. I bought a bottle once, then switched to Calbe A300 for a while (because I read somewhere that it was better suited to baryta paper)... I think I used it three years later without any issues. The solution never went off on me either (even though I sometimes left it for long periods). I don’t know if this is generally a characteristic of odourless/neutral fixers, but I could well imagine it; Amaloco also claims very good shelf life for its X88. Regards Bernhard

Saishi

Right then, thanks for the info. So I’ve had a go at developing a photo. I took the photo in complete darkness, as I don’t yet own a darkroom lamp. The image has been scanned and is actually brighter and more vibrant. It looks better in real life. Please let me know what you think. I’m a photographer

cfb_de

Hi Matthias, It’s looking pretty good already. There’s black and white in the picture, so you’ve already worked out the right exposure time and gradient. The fact that the image doesn’t have quite as much sharpness overall might be down to the scan. But it’s clear that you can expose and develop film in such a way that you get negatives suitable for printing. And you’re managing to get those onto paper too. Keep it up! Best regards, Franz

Saishi

Thanks for your post. The image is sharp, but that’s really down to the scan. The head is in focus and the background is blurred. Just a quick question on the side. What do you mean by gradient? Edit: Bloody hell! I’ve just ruined my paper – it’s got a black border now. I left the box open. GRUMBLE!

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