1) There is no known process that can restore the cyan density in the printed image
Are you sure? We have consulted the Agfa employee. There appear to be one or two patents, but no further details are known.
2) Scanning the paper print and ‘refreshing’ it on the PC only makes sense if there is still a residual cyan residue that can be enhanced; otherwise, the apparent red cast will only be made worse by extensive overlaying with cyan
I’ve had to learn that the hard way too... Some are so red that there isn’t much to be salvaged.
3) The only viable option is to use the colour negative, which hopefully is still intact, from which – using today’s tools (a computer) – a print with significantly better contrast and colour reproduction can usually be produced compared to the original (fresh) print
I think I still have most of the negatives. However, there are a great many pocket films among them. Strangely enough, it is precisely most of the images from pocket films that have turned red; probably a ‘spurious correlation’. Most of my negatives (including 35mm) also have a red cast, but I’m not sure to what extent that’s inevitable and whether it’s filtered out during the production of the prints; I’m not familiar with the process.
I really must have a film reprinted as a test to see if anything can be done with the negatives.
I have a film scanner, and I’ve already been experimenting with scanning the negatives... The results are much better than with the scanned red positives, but still far from ideal...
As a general rule: with colour processes (negative/positive and reversal), with the exception of Kodachrome film and Cibachrome paper, all unused colour couplers remain in the emulsion after processing. These are colourless and therefore invisible, and can have unpleasant long-term effects on the dye formation. They can attack the colorants (resulting in fading) or they can still react after many years and form their colour. The Agfa CT18 from around 1969 shows the latter tendency in my experience; the magenta coupler ‘awakens’ after 40 years and increasingly covers the entire slide with a magenta cast.
The home processor knows: the best method for neutralising colour couplers in the long term is still formalin.
The Agfa technical advisor on this:
“The reason for this problem is that a great deal of residual chemical has remained in the images, and this then leads to the destruction of the colorants.
In other words, the rinsing was poor, not vigorous enough, or too little water was used during rinsing, the water was too cold during rinsing, etc., etc....”
That more or less matches what you said.
I was advised to soak a print like this in lukewarm water for an hour. I haven’t tried it yet, but I intend to. It does seem almost esoteric....
Regards
Wolfgang