fotolabdude
What light meters do you have, or which ones would you recommend?
I mainly shoot outdoors – so no studio work!
At the moment, I’m using an old Weimarlux that’s been around for a few years now.
Kind regards,
fotodude :-)
Wolfram
Hello "Fotodude",
I myself use a GOSSEN LUNASIX F with a spot attachment.
However, I mainly use it because of its ability to measure flash light in the studio.
Not your problem.
But I definitely prefer an analogue one with a needle to a digital one with a display.
Perhaps it’s just a habit.
But I do find it useful to be able to “measure around the frame” to determine the dynamic range.
Take an integral reading, set it to 0, and then see what the needle does.
That way, I can still choose to adjust the exposure for the highlights or the shadows.
The spot metering option is ideal.
Especially when you can’t measure every corner up close outdoors.
I’m very happy with my Gossen.
It’s never let me down.
This model is also available without flash metering as the LUNASIX 3.
At the very least, I wouldn’t buy one with selenium cells anymore.
They become very inaccurate with age.
There’s also no reason to buy a new light meter.
Before I’d buy a cheap, new one, I’d rather spend the same money on a second-hand professional model.
Regards
Wolfram
fotolabdude
Thanks for now, Wolfram!
I’m thinking about whether I might get a Digiflash or Digisix from Gossen.
Best regards, fotodude :-)
Wolfgg
Hello!
When buying a light meter, you should always start by answering the key question: do you need 1° spot metering or not? Only once you have the answer to this will you know which models are worth a closer look. The 1° devices are not only annoyingly large (they require a large lens), but there is also far more scope for error when using them than, for example, with simple light metering.
A Variosix F with a 5° attachment is enough for me: it’s handy, lightweight, very accurate, can do everything, and is powered by a 9V battery that will still be available in the future.
Regards, Wolfgang
JensW
Hi,
That reminds me of the second key question: just how precise does it need to be? Are you shooting colour slides for a magazine, or ‘ordinary’ colour negatives or black-and-white for your own use? I use a Gossen Sixtomat Flash; with a resolution of 1/10 of a f-stop, it’s actually too precise for most shots, but it’s great for ‘recalibrating’ the exposure meters on your cameras. You can use it to capture the contrast range of a subject in a flash and display it well, provided the subject is close by. If it’s further away, you actually need an expensive spot meter.
It can also measure light, but it’s a bit unwieldy then, as you have to hold it ‘upside down’ (which might not look as professional as a Sekonic for portraits). Flash metering is also very practical and precise.
It was one of the few devices I bought new; they don’t get much cheaper second-hand either, as the good ones hardly age at all.
Nowadays, however, I often estimate the exposure (for B&W) and would therefore only buy a small one.
Exposure bracketing is also an alternative to an expensive spot meter – or a cheap old SLR with spot metering.
Regards, Jens
Wolfram
Hi Jens,
Can you set the exposure time and aperture on your camera to an accuracy of 1/10?
Mine only go in half-stop increments for both aperture and exposure time.
In that case, an exposure meter with 1/3 EV increments should be sufficient.
Even for critical shooting conditions with slides.
And I’d be cautious about calibrating camera exposure meters.
The influence of the lens on the measurement is a bit too great for that.
The aperture value is, after all, a theoretical figure.
Depending on the number of lens elements and the coating (light transmission), the actual light transmission can vary.
However, the method is a useful one for a rough check.
And, excuse me, I wouldn’t really fancy lugging around an SLR with spot metering and a telephoto lens.
A LUNASIX 3, for example, with a 5-degree spot attachment, should be available for around 40–50 euros.
Regards
Wolfram
StefanCaspari
Hello fotodude!
I’ve been a professional photographer for 30 years and have been using Gossen-beli meters since the very beginning.
For the last 20 years, I’ve been using a Profisix outdoors and a Lunasix F (flash metering) in the studio.
However, with these needle-type meters, you should bear in mind that they have a high speed in responding to shocks and can be damaged relatively easily.
The analogue display (the needle essentially shows me ‘mechanically’, without me having to mentally calculate, how much dynamic range I’m dealing with and how I need to adjust my exposure for the selected mid-grey) more than makes up for this risk, though.
What’s more, Gossen still repairs these devices using original parts with a manufacturer’s warranty.
If you want to be absolutely sure, you should definitely buy a grey card.
This is (even with the best exposure) the only reliable reference value that allows you to measure neutral grey against the light, apart from integral measurement.
Best regards from Munich:
Stefan
Wolfgg
One useful tip hasn’t been mentioned yet:
Instead of a grey card, you can simply use a white sheet of paper (ordinary photocopying paper). The light meter will then read about 2.5 stops too high. So, if it reads f/11.6, the correct aperture would be f/5.6.
Advantage: it costs nothing and you still get a clear needle deflection even in dark corners of churches or in the city at night.
Regards, Wolfgang
StefanCaspari
One useful tip hasn’t been mentioned yet:
Instead of a grey card, you can simply use a white sheet of paper (ordinary photocopying paper). The light meter will then read about 2.5 stops too high. So, if it reads f/11.6, the correct aperture would be f/5.6.
Advantage: it costs nothing and you still get a clear needle deflection even in dark corners of churches or in the city at night.
Regards, Wolfgang
You’re right, Wolfgg!
Great idea!
Regards, Stefan
Gawan
Dear photography enthusiasts;
When it comes to exposure, I usually rely on the display and automatic exposure control on 35mm cameras. It’s only when using a 6x6 camera that I need to rely on an external ‘handheld light meter’ – and for that I use a Gossen Lunalite without an attachment (although it is capable of accommodating attachments).
Following the advice of my brother, who once worked in a professional studio, I take both a subject and a light reading – particularly in high-contrast situations – and then convert the result, as required, to the shutter speed and exposure combination. With the Hasselblad, these “values” are simply provided, e.g. “14” for daylight outdoors.
Yours truly
Gawan
