AndreMilchewski
Hi there,
I’d like to develop Adox CHS film in APH 09 at
temperatures below 20°C.
Unfortunately, I haven’t been able to find any development times for this.
Actually, a time for 24°C would be enough for me,
as I can then work out all the other times myself.
Has anyone tried this out yet?
cfb_de
Hi Andre,
I developed a few hundred R50s in Rodinal at 16°C. I pre-warmed them for 1 minute at 20°C and then developed them for 8.5 minutes in Rodinal 1+25, agitating for 15 seconds at a time, at 16°C.
This might serve as a guide for you, but not as a set formula. The other variables in film development and exposure differ too greatly between you and me for that. Besides, I used Rodinal and not R09.
For some time now, however, I have moved away from the R50 and replaced it with the TMX.
Best regards,
Franz
piu58
Apply a factor of 1.13 for every degree of temperature reduction per minute. For the highly recommended 16°C, this gives a factor of 1.63.
Tandemfahren
Halle,
As I’m struggling a bit with the CHS myself: why are 16s recommended? R09 1+80 20 warm cools my 25s in just under a quarter of an hour – well, 12 minutes – but I get the impression they’re only half-done. And not at ISO 25.
Best regards,
Frank Bleyer
cfb_de
Hi Frank,
This is because, at lower temperatures, Rodinal produces less grain whilst still achieving roughly the rated sensitivity for classic films.
However, there is a limit: after 15–17 minutes, Rodinal 1+50 at 20°C is spent and almost ineffective. This time increases by roughly the same amount as the development time increases at lower temperatures.
Also, in winter it’s 16°C in my kitchen. And that’s where I develop my film.
Best regards,
Franz
Tandemfahren
Hi Franz,
That took just five minutes to get a reply, and that was at a room temperature of 16°C!
If I’ve got this right, at 1+80 and 16–18°C, I’ll need no more than one stop for the ISO 25 film?
Is that right? Will it then come closer to the promised ISO 25, or will it be even lower?
Best regards,
Frank
cfb_de
Hi Frank,
At a 1+80 dilution and 16°C, the developer runs out before the film has even started to develop properly. Use a 1+40 dilution and start with the calculated time. That’ll be pushing it, though. I save time by agitating more vigorously and get the 50-speed film to develop at more than 50 ASA. I’ve never done anything with the 25, it’s a bit too slow for me.
Besides, you won’t be lugging a kilo of developer about, just half a kilo.
Best regards,
Franz
AndreMilchewski
At 1+80 and 16°C, the developer is exhausted before the film has even started to develop.
I cannot confirm this experience.
Even at 1+200 at 16°C (I’m talking about APH09 here)
I tend to have problems with overdevelopment
— I find it difficult to judge the development time accurately.
cfb_de
At a dilution of 1:80 and 16°C, the developer runs out before the film has even started to develop.
I can’t confirm this experience.
Even at 1+200 at 16°C (I’m talking about APH09 here)
I tend to have problems with overdevelopment
— I can’t estimate the development time very well.
Stand development?
That may well be the case. However, it works just as well without any edge hype using Rodinal/R09. Pour horse piss or Nescafé into the pot and it develops just as evenly and softly. (Sounds like a joke, and it’s meant as one, but it’s based on facts!)
25 hours in a standard batch of "TIP" instant coffee at 20°C in a static bath produces HP5+ negatives that are perfectly suitable for printing. The state-of-the-art "Stain" takes care of the details for anyone enlarging at fixed gradation "2".
N8,
Franz
Tandemfahren
@Franz
My dear, are we having a bit of a row here, mmmmm? Is that what we do on the forum, mmmm?
Just to show you, since I’m up later even without Lälitschkaffee:
a) Lälitschkaffee isn’t allowed in my kitchen, just like your horse piss.
b) In fact, I’ve developed APH09 films myself, if not at 1+200, then at 1+100, CHS25 according to my pocket calendar at 1-minute intervals.
That’s the rhythm it has to be done at... the 25 tends to flare up quite easily, so I just thought, well, if Mirko says so, it’ll be fine...
The shadow detail still falls off anyway (compared to ATM49 or even Emofin), and I can’t quite get to grips with that.
With more light, the highlights start to clip.
And if you develop it for even longer, it looks really bad.
Perhaps we’re just talking at cross-purposes anyway; it could well be the film that makes the difference (25, 50 or 100)?
For now, ADOX is only available in Nebel
Nähtli
Frank
