Fuji Neopan 1600 in Rodinal 1:50

Timur

Done..

Otto

The NP1600 only achieves around 400 ISO in Rodinal 1+50. A different developer is recommended (e.g. A49). But even then, you’ll struggle to get above 1000 ISO. In low light, the shadows get washed out very quickly. Best regards, Otto Beyer!

skahde

Another developer is recommended (e.g. A49). But even then, you’ll struggle to go above 1000 ISO. In low light, the shadows close in very quickly.

If A49 isn’t to your liking, XTol produces an identical curve with Neopan 1600 and achieves the same speed (1+1 in each case). The shadows always wash out; when measured at Zone I, the film has no more speed than a Neopan 400. However, due to its distinctive curve (steep shadows, normal mid-tones, soft highlights), it performs very well when used at higher settings in typical available light conditions. Best regards Stefan

Timur

The NP1600 only achieves around 400 ISO in a 1:50 Rodinal solution. A different developer is recommended (e.g. A49). But even then, you’ll struggle to go beyond 1000 ISO. In low light, the shadows get washed out very quickly. Best regards, Otto Beyer!

Thank you very much for your comment. Did you see the sample image I posted? That negative was developed in Rodinal at 1600 ISO. Given that, in your opinion, the film doesn’t go beyond 400 ISO, I don’t think the result is bad. It’s also just a scan of a PE print. I’ve already made a better baryta print of it. I’ll give A49 a go anyway. Maybe I’ll get an ‘even’ better result...? Keep enjoying your photography.

Stavro

My question is probably a bit silly, but I need to know: if I expose the Neopan 1600 at, say, 1000 or 800 ISO, do I need to adjust the development time, or do I develop it as if it were 1600? Regards Stavro

skahde

Have you seen the sample photo I sent you? That negative was developed in Rodinal at 1600 ISO. Given that, in your opinion, the film doesn’t perform well above 400 ISO, I don’t think the result is bad at all.

A typical push result with no detail in the shadows. It looks lovely in the shot, but it matches Otto’s statement and is just as typical of Neopan. I love this film. Best regards, Stefan

Otto

I have often exposed the NP1600 at 800 ASA and developed it in A49 1+1 (11 mins). The data sheet can be found here: http://www.calbe-chemie.de/prod/pdf/A%2049.pdf As with many other data sheets, this one only provides information on development time. There is a complete lack of information regarding achievable speed. If you look at the data sheets for TMAX3200 or Ilford 3200, you will also find that the effective speed is only around 1000 ISO. This seems to be the limit beyond which you must expect significant losses in quality if you have insufficient exposure. Good luck and best regards, Otto Beyer! http://www.ottobausw.de/

Timur

I have often exposed NP1600 at 800 ASA and developed it in A49 1+1 (11 mins). The data sheet can be found here: http://www.calbe-chemie.de/prod/pdf/A%2049.pdf As with many other data sheets, this one only provides information on development time. Information on the achievable speed is completely missing. If you look at the data sheets for TMAX3200 or Ilford 3200, you will also find that the effective speed is only around 1000 ISO. That seems to be the limit beyond which you have to expect significant losses in quality if your exposure is too short. Good luck and best regards, Otto Beyer! http://www.ottobausw.de/

Thanks for the tip. I’ll give it a go with the next Neopan using A49.

peaceman

My tip: Diafine. With this, it achieves around 2000 ISO and development takes just the usual 6 minutes with Diafine :-) Example: http://www.peaceman.de/weat/Partys/Mirjas%20Geburtstag/IMG_4732.jpg

skahde

Example: http://www.peaceman.de/weat/Partys/Mirjas%...ag/IMG_4732.jpg

If you don’t allow direct links to your images, you shouldn’t try it yourself either. It won’t work. :) Best regards Stefan

SamuliSchielke

Why not go for the classic: D-76 or ID-11. Develop it exactly as stated on the data sheet (or on the inside of the film packet). My standard method: perform exposure at 1600, 24 degrees, 6 minutes 30 seconds. Rinse in a 1+1 solution. Grain isn’t a problem – you can see it, but it looks good; enlargements up to 30x40 come out well, and the grey tones are superb. I’m so happy with this combination that I no longer use 400 film for 35mm. In my opinion, Neopan 1600 is very poorly suited to daylight photography, but I use 100 film for that anyway. Best regards Samuli