fotolux
Hello,
I’m still quite new to the development of black-and-white negatives. I’ve just developed my first two Tmax100 rolls using Rodinal 1+25 (5.5 mins, 5 mins fixing) and I’m a bit unsure… they’re drying at the moment ;-)
They have a pink cast... this isn’t the case with my TRX400 films?!?!
Is this normal?
How would this look when scanned in RGB mode??
Looking forward to your replies!
Oliver
cfb_de
Hi Oliver,
It’s normal (in the sense that ‘it happens’), but it’s not ideal. The antihalation hasn’t completely dissolved. You could try three things: re-fixing, re-rinsing or… hanging the film in the window for three days.
I don’t know how this affects scanning.
TMax films require significantly more fixing time, partly for this reason, and they deplete the fixer more quickly (due to the iodine content of the emulsion). Whereas with standard films I use seven parts fixer to one part film, with TMax films I allow a maximum of four (X55 1+7).
Best regards,
Franz
fotolux
Hi Franz, thanks a lot!
Now that I’ve switched to black and white for street photography and want to develop the film myself, I’m still looking for the right film for my needs... In wet processing, I like the TRX best... it’s just that the scanning results are a bit patchy.
Which film do you use?
Regards,
Oliver
PS: What happens to the film if I leave it hanging in the window?
cfb_de
Hi Oliver,
I buy film as and when I need it, and the developers to go with it too. At the moment, I’m covering my 35mm needs with HP5+ and TMax400, using Rodinal or HRX-II depending on the intended use and the required speed.
For medium format, it’s still HP5+; the Efke/ADOX 50s are currently being phased out in favour of TMax100, and every now and then I pop a TMax400 into the camera. The developers are also Rodinal and HRX-II, with the occasional batch I make myself.
For large format, I’m planning (the camera isn’t fully assembled yet) to start with Fomapan-100/Classic-400/Rodinal. For the odd snap with the Minox, I use Delta100/TMax100 (whatever’s to hand) and develop in HRX-II.
Best regards,
Franz
p.s.: Please make sure you’re writing “TMX” or “TRX”. Any sloppiness here will come back to haunt you, at the latest when you’re asking for development recommendations here on the forum.
Wolfgg
Oliver: Set the fixing time to twice the usual developing time, then leave some water in the tank after washing; drain it every 5–10 minutes and check whether the water is colourless. At 35–40°C, the remaining antihalation disappears more quickly. But raise the temperature slowly from 20°C.
Regards, Wolfgang
Renate
Hello,
The antihalation can be removed in the developer. However, as developers vary in their alkalinity, the results can be hit and miss. I’ve always ignored the pink tinge and never had any problems with it. It disappears on its own over time.
Scanning black-and-white films:
Any films that still contain silver in the emulsion layer after processing cannot be processed well using standard scanners. The grain is always a nuisance and you have to choose the scan parameters very carefully. The only films that are easier to scan are those based on colour film technology, i.e. all films developed using the C41 or E6 process. There are a few black-and-white films that fall into this category, but I’m not familiar with them. I always prefer the complete analogue process.
Best regards,
Renate
cfb_de
Hi Renate,
Now it's my turn :-)
Alkalizit?
Doesn’t exist. There is ‘Alkalit’ and (obsolete) ‘Alkalinit’.
Best regards,
Franz
Renate
Hello Franz,
What you’re saying is simply wrong!!!
Best wishes
Renate
Stick to what you know.
cfb_de
Hello Renate,
Is that better now?
Best regards,
Franz
