film/developer combo for beginners

karthoon · 2006-11-07T15:58:03+00:00

ich habe eine alte amateurausrüstung bekommen (dosen, schalen, duka-leuchte mit filtern, vergrößerungsgerät u.a. - sogar paar päckchen fixiersalz, orwo-papie...

karthoon

I’ve been given some old amateur photography kit (tins, trays, a Duka lightbox with filters, an enlarger and more – there are even a few packets of fixing salt, Orwo paper and A49 from 1972!! still included) and I’d like to develop my first films. My questions: - Which combination of film and developer is particularly suitable for beginners for processing? - And which one gives the best results in terms of sharpness, fine grain and grey-scale gradation (I’ve seen from old photos that the A49 is very fine-grained, but the image is rather muddy – I’d like more sharpness in mine)?

AntiLynd

As a rough rule of thumb, grain and fine grain are inversely proportional to one another. So you need to decide which way your priorities should lie. For me, it’s clear: it shouldn’t be obtrusive to the viewer, but grain is simply part and parcel of black and white photography. My ideal state is achieved when (at a normal viewing distance) you don’t notice it’s there, but you’d notice immediately if it were gone — if you know what I mean. Achieving this state precisely is, of course, an art in itself; I do try, but always in such a way that, if I get it wrong, I end up on the ‘pro-grain’ side, and thus also ‘pro-sheep’. But of course, everyone has to decide that for themselves... a not insignificant factor is, of course, your negative format (I assume 35mm?) and the intended enlargement scale up to which you don’t want to see any grain. As for the specific development solution, I’d advise you — despite your request for fine grain — to use Rodinal or Neofin Blaue. All the others are just... well... developers. B) Best regards Nils.

stefka

Hello kathoon, For me, a film and developer combination for beginners means: consistently good results without any hassle. My suggestions: ADOX CHM 400 + A49 or ADOX CHM 125 + Rodinal I choose these films for their versatility and robustness (after years of trial and error and searching for the Holy Grail of fine printing, I’ve come back to these myself). Obviously, the 125 has less grain; the choice between the films depends on the speed required for your type of photography. Both developers work very well with these films because they either suppress the granularity (A49) or bring out the granularity whilst also enhancing the aesthetic appeal (Rodinal). You can achieve great results with both combinations, and if it doesn’t work straight away the first time, keep working on it (vary the ASA setting, change the agitation rhythm, vary the time). My final tip: don’t change both the film AND the developer straight away if things aren’t looking good for you. Otherwise, you’ll keep having to start from scratch... Never get stressed! B) stefka

uhoepfner

Hello, Fomapan 400 and Fomadon LQN work very well together. The solution is easy to mix, relatively insensitive to temperature and produces consistent results. The whole thing is very reliable and relatively inexpensive. Of course, this combination also has its drawbacks: the 400 isn’t actually 400 ASA (though as an amateur, I still haven’t worked out what the problem is), and you mustn’t be put off by a little more grain. The professionals will surely have more to say on the matter... I enjoy using it because I know what I’m getting...

karthoon

Hi!

...when you... don’t notice it’s THERE, but you’d notice straight away if it were GONE — if you know what I mean.

Yeah, I get it: that’s how it is for a lot of old-timers... B) But back to the point: Thanks for the info, anyway! The chap I got the kit from (yes, it’s for 35mm) recommended Agfa films and Agfa Rodinal to me – but with the caveat that Agfa is only available as end-of-line stock now. It wouldn’t be very wise (especially for a beginner) to try and get used to something that won’t be around for much longer. Ilford was also recommended to me as an alternative – but that seems a bit pricey to me for a start, just to have a go. I’ve been having a rummage online (not just) in the FOTOIMPEX catalogue – and I’m a bit overwhelmed by the sheer variety of options. And there are brands I’ve never even heard of: Efke, ADOX, Foma, Spur, Moersch and many more – which doesn’t make things any easier. To start with, it’s important to me to actually get pictures onto paper – but with the option of actually managing to produce a good picture using the materials I’ve chosen (i.e. film, paper and developer types). I’ve no idea what I’ll particularly like – I just know what I don’t want: dull pictures where everything blends together and pictures that look as pixelated as the winning entries from the 1975 LPG competition ‘The Straightest Furrows’ in Neues Deutschland... (despite all the niggling doubts: it would be quite an achievement just to manage something like that) What ‘standard’ combinations do you lot use here – and why those in particular? Thomas

piu58

If you’re looking for something more affordable, Foma films aren’t bad. Some people mention they’re prone to mechanical damage (scratches), but I haven’t noticed that. Then again, I do take care when handling them (no reusing film canisters and so on). I’m familiar with Foma 100 and 400. Both films tend to curl. That’s why you need to develop them gently. I ended up using Rodinal at 1:100. The agitation of the can varies from person to person, but 13 minutes is a good starting point for both films. Use enough developer; ideally, don’t go below half a litre. If the can doesn’t hold that much, replace the developer halfway through the development time. Agfa recommends 10 ml per film, but you can’t manage that anyway. However, it should be at least 5 ml. R09 (or whatever it’s called now at Mirko’s) works fine too, of course. Under these conditions, both films are 2 DIN less sensitive than stated on the packet.

karthoon

I picked up a whole load of Jessops Pan 100s (= Agfa APX 100) on eBay for £1.50