uwezoo
Hello everyone,
Does anyone have any experience with the film and developer mentioned above, at ISO 24?
cfb_de
Hi Uwe,
I haven’t tried that yet. However, my experience with Rodinal tells me that at 24°C, the R50 is likely to lose its fine-grain characteristics.
Best regards,
Franz
uwezoo
Hi Franz,
What sort of developer do you think I should go for? I’d prefer a one-off developer…
HenningH
Hi Uwe,
I started a CHS50 Neofin thread here a few weeks ago.
I’m now using A49 as a single-use developer; so I transfer the solution into eight 100ml pharmacy bottles (they hold about 120ml when filled to the brim). I top up the contents of one of these bottles with the same amount of water for each film. That gives me enough developer to fill a canister.
I’m very happy with the results.
Why does it absolutely have to be 24°C?
Best regards,
Henning
cfb_de
Hi Uwe,
A single-use developer? You’ve already mentioned it: Rodinal. But not at 24°C. More like below 20°C.
And based on the batch before last, I can tell you that 1 minute of pre-heating, 7 minutes in 15-second agitation at 19°C and Rodinal 1+25 worked quite well for the R50. Jobo 1236, 520ml of developer inside, one roll film. And: my thermometer (calibrated laboratory thermometer stamped until 2009, fresh from the authorities).
I’m still testing the new ADOX batch. However, Efke batches no. 310555 and 410599 (the latter with some compromises) work well in it. The former comes out at almost 64 ASA, the latter at just under 50. That’s enough for me.
Once I’ve had enough experience with ‘Batch 510598’ under the ADOX label, I’ll get in touch either here or with Mirko. Or perhaps not at all. I’d already written my first impressions of the ADOX films here, and Mirko himself pointed out genetically-induced batch variations a little later.
Best regards,
Franz
uwezoo
Hi Henning,
In my bathroom (darkroom), the temperature is actually a constant 24°C.
As I’m a beginner when it comes to film development, I simply don’t have the experience to know how quickly a cooled-down developer heats up again.
@Franz,
Am I right in thinking that I should pre-warm the film for 1 minute, then add the developer?
At 19°C
How quickly does the temperature usually rise from 19°C within 7 minutes...
Gast
Hi Henning,
In my bathroom (darkroom), the temperature is actually a constant 24°C.
As I’m a beginner when it comes to film development, I simply don’t have the experience to know how quickly a cooled-down developer heats up again.
@Franz,
Am I understanding this correctly: I should pre-warm the film for 1 minute, then add the developer?
At 19°C
How quickly does the temperature usually rise from 19°C within 7 minutes...
Yes, first drain the water, then add the developer. Why are you working in such a warm environment? You can also engage in development in a cooler place.
uwezoo
Hello,
I have another question – I’ve bought some Xtol for 5 litres.
Are there any advantages or disadvantages to preparing it with distilled water???
cfb_de
Hello Uwe,
Using distilled water with Xtol actually has nothing but advantages. The reason: ‘sudden death’ with Xtol caused by catalytic oxidation of dissolved heavy metal ions (iron and copper, for example, are found quite legally and normally in any water pipe).
You can’t tell anything’s wrong with the solution, and yet it’s dead as a dodo from one day to the next. This is the reason why, in my view, it clearly speaks against Xtol and the packaging size.
Due to the heavy metal issue, I would also have certain reservations about storing Xtol in the usual brown glass bottles (you wouldn’t believe what can leach out of glass) and, quite contrary to my usual habit, I recommend proper plastic bottles made of HDPE or PET/PP. They just need to be gas-tight; the reused distilled water canister from the DIY store isn’t suitable for this.
Best regards,
Franz
uwezoo
OK, then I’ll go and get some of that water...
Hmmmm, now I’ve gone and bought five glass bottles just for this :(
