Mention of chemistry in the water bath Idea similar

Oliver · 2006-06-18T17:33:48+00:00

Hallo Ich möchte gerne meine E6 Chemie im Wasserbad auf 38° erwärmen, wie es z.B. mit dem Jobo Separator TB2 gemacht wird. Also Stapelbox, Wasser rein, Che...

Oliver

Hello I’d like to heat my E6 chemicals in a water bath to 38°C, as is done, for example, with the Jobo Separator TB2. So: stackable box, fill with water, place the chemical bottles inside, and put an aquarium heating element in the water bath. The problem is that the heater’s temperature control usually only goes up to a maximum of 34°C. Does anyone know of a heater with around 200 watts that can be set to around 40°C? You could use a standard immersion heater or heating element and connect it to an external temperature controller, but this controller costs considerably more than the aquarium heater. I’d also like to buy a second-hand Jobo Separator TB2, as it holds 1-litre bottles. I’d be grateful for any tips Kind regards Oliver

Christoph

Hi Oliver, For safety reasons, I personally wouldn’t want to have any electric heating elements directly in the water bath. But anyway, that’s a different matter. When I was younger, I used to carry out E6 development myself. I’d put a thermometer in the water bath, and if it got too cold, I’d simply top it up with warmer water. It worked a treat. Best regards Christoph

Oliver

Hello I’ve always added warm water as well up until now, but I find it too much of a faff. The heating element isn’t a problem, though: 1. I don’t put my hands in the water :( and 2. I use a residual current device (RCD) with a speed of 0.01 amps. The regulation for new installations in bathrooms (private households) is 0.03 amps. In doctors’ surgeries or operating theatres, it’s 0.01 amps. This means that if there’s a leakage current through the water via the body, the RCD trips within fractions of a second at a maximum current of 0.01 amps. You don’t even notice it. Leakage:(on a 9V battery it’s more painful) Does anyone want to get rid of their TBE2 as an alternative? Kind regards, Oliver

Kiste

Hi Oliver, Here’s an idea. 5-litre under-sink units have a decent heating element, a thermostat and a decent storage tank for buffering (and they’re relatively cheap for all that). As they operate without pressure – meaning the water is turned on and off before it reaches the tank (which is why the under-sink units have three pipes) – you can fit a simple pump upstream. So: water bath – hose – pump – under-sink unit – hose – water bath. Once set up, the large volume of water should suppress any fluctuations in the thermostat. Regards, Stephan P.S.: Never run under-sink units without water :-)

Oliver

Hi Steffan Great idea! Not bad at all! But unfortunately I don’t have enough space to put another UTG near my workstation – unfortunately. However, yesterday I found a manufacturer of small incubators with a water bath. This water bath has a heating element (similar in design to an aquarium heater) that can be adjusted up to 42 °C. Let’s see what they say. Kind regards, Oliver

skahde

The heating element isn’t a problem, is it?

that’s the safety approach of graphite-moderated nuclear reactors. If the safety system doesn’t work 100% and you then make a mistake, an expert will be at the scene shortly afterwards, shaking his head. Don’t do that! Best regards Stefan

drbue

Hello, I’ve been using immersion heaters for years: fill the sink, pop the chemical container in, heat it up to 50 degrees – that happens quickly – keep a close eye on the chemical temperature, and off we go. Quick, cheap, effective, and I don’t need yet another “unit”. Best regards

kohlenklau

Why not try placing a large pot of water and the chemistry flasks on a small single-plate hotplate? But don’t run the hotplate on 230 V; use low voltage instead. You’ll need to work out the voltage experimentally so that the power input and output balance out at 38 degrees. Alternatively, you could try using a dimmer set to the appropriate power output. I got this tip from my old teacher; he uses this method to heat his demijohns with a standard hotplate. Does anyone happen to know where you can get E6 chemicals cheaply? Regards, Michael from Salzgitter

SCKStef

However, don’t run the heater on 230 V; use low voltage instead. The voltage level would need to be determined experimentally so that the power input and output are balanced at 38 degrees. Alternatively, you could try using a dimmer set to the appropriate power output.

Hello Michael, With low voltage, I see the problem more as finding a power supply that can actually deliver the 700W required for a heating plate... I’d tend to go for the alternative with the dimmer, but that doesn’t reduce the voltage; instead, it cuts off part of the ‘current wave’... but you’d also need a dimmer that can handle high current. You could also modify a dimmer; the control is via a potentiometer (resistor), so you could also use a PTC (a resistor that changes with temperature) as a sensor. Alternatively, you could of course use a thermostat and connect it in the circuit. These units are also available ready-made with a sensor; you can get them from a heating engineer. Regards, Stähane.