JUTTA
Hello,
I’d like to try out the Adox CHS 25, 50 and 100 sheet film (9x12 / 4x5").
However, I won’t be tilting the film; instead, I’ll be rotating it using an ATL 3.
Is that possible with this sheet film?
What do I need to bear in mind?
I’d probably use R09 1+40. Would that work with the Adox 25 as well?
How does it compare to Foma sheet film?
Königkeit?
I’ve tried the Fortepan 200, but I’m not too keen on the tennis balls (grain! ;) )
ADOX CHS forward processing? For how long?
I know that’s loads of questions! But before I load this film into the cassettes,
I’d really like to hear about your experiences.
I want to take portraits, still lifes (plants) and landscapes.
I’d start with the 25 for architecture!
Could you give me a bit of help and guidance?
Best wishes from the Black Forest B)
JUTTA
Wolf_XL
Hi Jutta,
I really quite like using the 50 in 4x5. I expose it as if it were 50 ASA and develop it at 20°C using a 2500ml Jobo canister with a sheet film insert in a CPE2 (1 min pre-warm, 7 mins in Rodinal 1+25). I quite like it this way – it’s my APX 100 substitute, so to speak. The emulsion is quite sensitive – but with a bit of care, it works fine without an extra protective cover.
JUTTA
Hi Wolf,
Re: ADOX:
That sounds like a great alternative to APX!
So the 50 is already on the list ;)
Best wishes
Jutta
Renate
Hello Jutta,
The coarse grain in the Fortepan 200 isn’t down to the film itself, but to the way you process it. You’re scanning the negatives instead of enlarging them the traditional way. The ‘coarse grain’ only arises during the scanning process if you violate the sampling theorem. If you set the scanner parameters incorrectly, this can happen with any film. That’s one of the reasons why I never process my black-and-white negatives digitally.
We discussed this topic here quite recently. It was something to do with monster grain and FP4. Everything is explained very well there.
I wouldn’t recommend ADOX 25 for beginners. It’s a very difficult film that requires a lot of experience to master. The 50 is much more forgiving and the 100 is straightforward and always works. However, if developed in Rodinal, these films will all have problems when scanned.
Best regards
Renate
JUTTA
Hello Renate,
Yes, you’re probably right about that!
So far, unfortunately, it’s only been possible to do it digitally.
But I’ll finally be able to try out my 4x5 Teufelchen today ;)
The only thing I’m still missing is the red light filter. I’ve got the holder.
I suppose I’ll have to do a bit of tinkering.
For now, I can manage without it.
Then I’ll be able to compare. That’ll be best.
Best wishes,
Jutta
Renate
Hello again,
For anyone who’d like to know more:
In the thread titled ‘Tests with series of developments’, the concept of scanning and the sampling theorem have been described in detail.
Best regards,
Renate
JUTTA
Well, that’s all well and good, I suppose…
but I didn’t actually want to have the AdOX range described
in digital terms ;)
Based on your experience, I’d be more interested in the processes of exposure and development, and generally
how to handle the AdOX range!
Is the 25mm really that difficult?
What sort of things do you photograph with the 25mm and 50mm?
Best wishes
Jutta
zensusa
Hello Jutta,
Here are a few figures from my work with Adox CHS films (Efke). All films are processed at 24 degrees, with a 2-minute pre-warm-up, in a Jobo processor.
The results/negatives are designed for a mixed-light enlarger and produce a gradient of 2–3. If you have a condenser enlarger (I believe Teufel is one), you’ll need shorter times. A reduction of probably 10–20 per cent. You’ll just have to try it out.
By the way, I wouldn’t use the ADOX/Efke 25 as a sheet film. But if you have to, then use R09 at a ratio of 1:100.
Here are the figures:
ADOX/Efke 25 – exposed at 25 ASA
3.30 minutes at 1:40 / R09 (not really recommended, steep curve, time almost too short, but just about manageable)
7.00 minutes at 1:80 / R09
10.30 minutes at 1:100 / R09
ADOX/Efke 50 – but this only applies if you also have sheet films with the same batch number as the roll films (batch 510598)!!!!! I myself haven’t processed any 50 sheet films for a long time, but am currently only using roll films from this batch.
Exposure at 32 ASA – 7.15 minutes at 1:40 / R09
ADOX CHS100/Efke 100
Exposure at 80 ASA = 9.00 minutes at 1:40 / R09
Exposure at 64 ASA = 9.00 minutes at 1:60 / R09 (my preferred R09 combination)
I’ll also give you a CG512 developer time for the 100 Adox CHS/Efke. This developer produces very nice tonal range, fine grain and, for a fine-grain developer, has very good sharpness! For me, this combination is, so to speak, the replacement for the 50 Adox/Efke:
exposed at 50 ASA = 12.30 minutes
Just a little extra for anyone who, like me, works with Macos PO100c roll film: the Adox CHS 100 times mentioned above can also be used for the PO 100c roll film. Incidentally, the times mentioned above also apply to Adox roll films and not just to sheet films.
Right, that’s it – have fun developing and enjoy the rest of your evening.
Best regards, Lothar
ChristianKolinski
Hello,
I’d like to try out the Adox CHS 25, 50 and 100 9x12 / 4x5" sheet film.
However, I won’t be tilting the film; instead, I’ll be rotating it using an ATL 3.
Will that work with this sheet film?
What do I need to bear in mind?
It certainly works with this film. You should make sure that your Jobo spirals (if you’re using the 2509n) have the little ‘wings’ for clamping. Without them, you’re likely to get streaks. If you have the 3000 Expert drums: brilliant, it doesn’t get any better than that.
I’d also tend to use the R09 1+40. Even with the ADOX 25?
Why not? OK, the R09 isn’t the be-all and end-all for rotation. But it works perfectly well.
For comparison, Foma sheet film?
The best?
I’ve tried the Fortepan 200, but I’m not that keen on the ‘tennis balls’ (grain! :blink: )
Well, I’m happy with the Fomapan 100. Much finer-grained than the ADOX 100, and nowhere near as scratch-sensitive.
Significantly better than the Forte (I tried the 400. *shudder*).
ADOX CHS development time? How long?
Impex recommends 30 seconds. If it takes a minute, that’s not too bad either. Just make sure it’s always the same length of time so that the results remain consistent.
Best wishes from the Black Forest B)
Oh, have a look. From which corner, then?
Christian
JUTTA
Hello Lothar,
Thank you very much for your help!
That’s exactly the kind of expert answer I was hoping for.
Now I know what to look out for and which developer to use for the ADOX film. It will depend on the situation and the end result I’m aiming for.
Best regards
Jutta
Hello Christian,
So the 2509n is complete! With little wings :blink:
I haven’t had any problems with streaks so far!
So the Foma 100 is of finer grain than the ADOX 100? And of finer grain than the ADOX 50 too?
Well, in that case I suppose I’d better order the Foma 100 as well!
Yes, Christian, from the Black Forest near Baden-Baden!
Best regards
Jutta
zensusa
Hello Jutta,
Just one more thing I completely forgot to mention. When fixing Efke/ADOX CHS films, you should add a hardener, as the Efke emulsions are slightly more sensitive than ‘mass-produced films’. However, this speed isn’t as big a problem as is often made out to be in the forums.
One more comment on R09 and agitation: R09 is very well suited to agitation. As I’ve been using agitation for ages :-) I can say that R09, Promicrol and CG512 are good for agitation. I’m only mentioning these three as they are the developers I usually use.
See you soon
Best regards
Lothar
JUTTA
Hi Lothar,
Actually, I’m really happy with the R09 and the rotating mechanism too!
I’m even starting to get the hang of the Fortepan 200!
It has its own style again :blink:
I’ve taken a few portraits in 4x5"!
Example:
Portrait with Fortepan 200
It was great fun! That was the most important thing!
Best wishes
Jutta
SamuliSchielke
The photo looks really lovely! It gives me even more courage to seriously consider large format. What sort of camera do you have? How much did it cost?
Samuli
JUTTA
Hi Samuli,
Thanks so much for your comment on that portrait!
You’d like to know what camera I’ve got?
Take a look at it:
my little treasure!!!
Well, what do you think?
How much does a camera like that cost?
A small fortune :D Of course, only if it looks this good and isn’t a bit run-down!
The flash alone – I get enquiries from all over the world asking if I’d sell it B)
The original bulb flash is included too! They’re still made today – the cost for a
flash (i.e. one-off use) is around 9 euros :D
How much did I invest?
You’d rather not know! :lol:
I just need to make myself a circuit board for a new lens – take a look here:
Front view of the circuit board
Back view of the circuit board
A new circuit board is on the cards again soon! For a 150mm Xenar!
I’ll give you an address for the MPP Club.
Have a look around there first. Feel free to do a bit of research beforehand! It never hurts!
MPP website
I’ve gone for the MPP Micro Technical VII; I’ll list the pros and cons as best I can.
+ Folds flat. Floor-mounted camera!
+ Quick to set up and ready to shoot.
+ Lens boards have no special tabs or locking lugs. Size 101 x 101 mm
+ Sturdy metal construction.
+ Very light, smooth and quick to adjust. Zero positions are marked.
+ International rear plate.
+ Rotating rear plate. Easy and very quick to switch between portrait and landscape formats in all positions.
+ 3-stage extension up to 42 cm. !!!!!
+ Front section folds down. 15 degrees
+ Ultra-stable even with heavy lenses.
+ Whether adjusting directly or indirectly, nothing warps or wobbles.
+ A precision camera that meets my requirements.
- A bit heavier than a wooden camera.
- Adjustment wheels aren’t suitable for large hands.
- Cannot be adapted or upgraded for larger formats.
- Not often available in Germany.
Well, have I whetted your appetite a bit???? :P
Watch out, the bug strikes very quickly :blink:
Some people just can’t shake it off B)
Best wishes
Jutta
zensusa
Hi Samuli,
I haven’t actually read what Jutta wrote under her ‘Links’, but I’ll give you the following information anyway.
The MPP 4x5" is a very good English "Technika copy" of the Linhof. You can currently get a good second-hand MPP, including a Boyer 4.8/150 mm lens, from Mr Greiner (a photographer I know who has been dealing in second-hand photographic equipment for several years) for €625.00. As I know Mr Greiner personally, having bought quite a few items from him myself or sold my own through him, I can confirm that he will give you expert advice and wouldn’t sell you any rubbish. It’s a good place to go for anyone looking to buy good-quality second-hand photographic equipment and who doesn’t fancy using eBay or similar sites. I hope nobody minds me posting the address here, especially as it’s in no way in competition with our host.
http://www.greiner-photo.de
Otherwise, have a lovely evening and see you later
Lothar
JUTTA
Hi Samuli,
Lothar has described it very well!
especially as he’s a really lovely chap who’ll even send you photos if you’re interested!
I’m not exactly sure what model of the MPP this is either...
Just ask Mr Greiner for the number on the back (it’s
on the top edge), then you can match it to the model and year!
That’s important if you need circuit boards for the lenses! They vary in size and shape
across the MPP models!
But if you’re really interested, feel free to get in touch with me!
And Mirko will certainly be delighted to have another sheet film customer :blink:
Best regards
Jutta
MirkoBoeddecker
Lothar,
It’s no problem at all to post Christoph’s address.
I can also recommend him 100%.
Competent, reliable, fair.
Best regards,
Mirko
cfb_de
Hi Jutta,
What kind of lens is in that lovely compound? By the way: Hats off for the free work!
Best regards,
Franz
JUTTA
Hi Franz,
What a wonderful 5.5/360mm Tele-Xenar!
Thanks for the comment – it really was hard work!
Even a qualified carpenter was impressed :blink:
Best wishes,
Jutta
cfb_de
A wonderful 5.5/360mm Tele-Xenar!
Hello Jutta,
Nice find! I once stumbled across a Eurynar 6.8/36cm in compound and repaired it. Since then, I’ve really been tinkering with a 13x18.
@all: Yes, I’ve actually started this five-year-old running joke today! The drawings have been finished for a while, and I’ve even roughly cut out the front standard today. Next weekend I’ll be raiding Conrad for fittings and screw drives. Then all that’s left is cutting, filing and folding the bellows... It’ll be ready just in time for winter. Hopefully.
Best regards,
Franz
