Gast
Hello!
I’ve had the chance to get hold of several apothecary bottles. I thought they might be useful for storing developer or fixer solutions!?
Problem: The bottles are empty, but they clearly haven’t been rinsed out. Does anyone recognise the following terms?
mixt. sulfuric. acid.
sol. ammon. chlor 1=5
baryum chlorat.
nat. sulfur.sicc.
tinct. aromat.
tinct.pimpinell
I’ve already had a look on Wikipedia and Google, but haven’t really found anything.
Is it probably best not to use them?
Regards, Philipp
Gast
Well, a thorough clean is in order.
In order:
mixed sulphuric acid
ammonium chloride solution
barium chlorate
natural sulphur, dried
and two more tinctures
If a really thorough clean isn’t possible, then you shouldn’t use the bottles.
However, even when using only photochemicals, a thorough cleaning is advisable every time the bottles are refilled ...
cfb_de
Well, anyone who’s learnt Latin and done a work placement in a pharmacy can then impress their fellow students with accurate labelling and won’t have their experiments stolen in the analytical chemistry practical.
(Cleaning instructions in brackets.)
> mixt. sulfuric. acid.
diluted sulphuric acid (1)
> sol. ammon. chlor 1=5
Ammonium chloride solution, 5 mol/l (1)
> baryum chlorat.
Barium chloride (2) with a spelling mistake
> nat. sulfur.sicc.
Dried sulphur (3) with a spelling mistake
> tinct. aromat.
Some sort of alcoholic extract of something (1a) (*)
> tinct. pimpinell
Alcoholic extract of pimpernel (1a)
(1):
- Rinse out thoroughly. Caution with sulphuric acid. Drops on clothing only become visible after a week. By then, unfortunately, as a hole.
- Waste water: drain
- Rinse twice with distilled water; the bottles will be as good as new.
(2):
- The contents are toxic. Soluble barium salts are used as rat poison.
- Buy diluted 5% sulphuric acid from a chemist and use it to rinse the bottle.
- Filter; dispose of the filter as hazardous waste.
- For the residue, see (1).
(3):
- Powder form? Dust off. Dirt -> household waste.
- Residue see (1).
(1a):
- Rinse with ethanol (methylated spirits will do and are cheap).
- Pour down the sink
- If it still smells afterwards: Repeat twice as in (1a).
- Odourless: repeat twice more as in (1).
- (*) If necessary, put it in the glass recycling bin afterwards.
By the way: What sort of cut do the bottles have? Rough, grey-looking ones? If so, I wouldn’t put any developer in them; the glass stoppers are guaranteed to get stuck and are anything but airtight.
Was that all clear even for non-chemists? If not: Ask here, I check regularly.
Best regards,
Franz
PhilippReichmuth
You do have to ask yourself, though, whether it’s worth the effort. New Aponorm 1-litre bottles with lids cost less than €3, at least here.
Philipp
Richard
Hello,
I’d like to join in with the cleaning tips. Does anyone here know what Kodak’s ‘print flattening solution’ is? What could it be, and how might one clean the bottles?
Best regards,
Richard
Gast
Hello,
Which Aponorm bottles do you usually use?
The ones with glass stoppers and ground joints, or the ones with plastic stoppers?
Best regards,
Peter Pan
Gast
Hello!
I’ve just rinsed a bottle following the instructions; it looks pretty good to the eye.
Unfortunately, the stoppers are rather stiff; they were also quite stuck fast when I opened them.
Can you get Aponorm bottles at the chemist’s?
Many thanks for your help!
Best regards, Philipp
PhilippReichmuth
Can you get Aponorm bottles at the chemist’s?
Yes. These are the ones that pharmacies use to fill their own chemicals when selling them, which is why they’re relatively cheap.
Sizes over 1 litre might be difficult to find, but there are plenty of smaller ones available, in a nice range of sizes.
Philipp
Gast
Well then, I can just bottle the A49 straight into single-use bottles; I always use it as a one-off developer.
Thanks!
Philipp
cfb_de
Hi Richard,
Sounds like some sort of attenuator. See cleaning tip 1), followed by 1a) from my first post here.
Best regards,
Franz
cfb_de
Hello Peter Pan,
The ones with the red screw-top lids and collars.
Best regards,
Franz
arothaus
Well then, I can just pour the A49 straight into small bottles; I always use it as a single-use developer.
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That’s exactly what I do. I’ve got a few 100ml and some 250ml bottles. I fill the 100ml ones to the brim (careful – they might burst!), which gives me 125ml, and I don’t need Protectan either. I add a bit of protective gas to the 250ml ones. With a 1+1 dilution, I end up with 250ml for one KB film or 500ml for two KBs or rolls (calculated for a Jobo 1500).
A49 doesn’t last six months for me at the moment; until then, I haven’t noticed any consistency issues.
Regards,
Andreas
Gast
I suppose I’ll have to get hold of a few of the new bottles then.
@Andreas: What’s the longest you’ve ever kept developer in the bottles?
Best regards, Philipp
arothaus
Hi Philipp,
So 3 to 4 months were no problem. Storage in the dark at around 18–20 degrees. As I said, I don’t think 6 months would be a problem either; at least that’s what I’ve heard from others, and it might even last longer than that.
Best regards,
Andreas R.
skahde
"Kodak print flattening solution" mainly contains water, plus a little ethylene glycol and glycerine, and is used to flatten the print rather than its gradient. :P
Best regards
Stefan
