SamuliSchielke
Hi everyone,
Since Agfa Agefix is no longer available here, I’ve switched to Amaloco’s odourless (which is admittedly marketing jargon, but it really is low-odour) fixer. When I was reading the instructions, I noticed that Amaloco recommends fixing flat-crystal films for longer and at a stronger concentration (in this case, if I’m not mistaken, 4 minutes at 1+4 instead of 3 to 5 minutes at 1+7). Fomapan 200 is a flat-crystal film, but the Foma data sheet gives the same fixing times for all films. So, you experienced folk who know a bit about chemistry, what do you think?
a. Is that right? If so, I need to worry about the longevity of my T200 negatives.
b. Is that nonsense and should I just fix as normal?
c. Something else?
All the best,
Samuli
RomanJRohleder
Samuli,
>since Agfa Agefix is no longer available in this country,
That might well change soon.
>I’ve switched to the odourless (which is, of course, marketing jargon, but it really is low-odour) fixer from Amaloco.
Yep, the (disguised) colour film fixers like Calbe FX-R, Agfa UniFX and others are veeeeeery nice; I prefer the subtle ammonia smell to the sour, sulphurous stench of classic rapid fixers (the one Foma includes with Diakit is a particularly extreme example; I’ve just thrown away the residues from a raclette, including some mayonnaise my mum made – it smelled very similar. <G>).
>Fomapan 200 is a flat-crystal film, but the Foma data sheet gives the same fixing times for all >films.
Foma is rather laid-back when it comes to data sheets.
>a. Is that true? Then I need to worry about the shelf life of my T200->negatives.
Don’t stress. If no fog has appeared so far, it’s safe to assume it’ll stay that way.
>b. Is that nonsense and should one just fix as normal?
Yes. Fix everything as usual – use a strong solution (1+4 instead of those stupid economy dilutions), determine the clearing time, and based on that, use a two-bath fixing process... and everything will be fine.
>c. Anything else?
Yes, something else: have you ended up in MZ now? Philipp mentioned something about that in passing...
Roman
Gast
Hi Roman,
Thanks for the tips. I’ll have a look at the old negatives; if everything’s fine, I’ll carry on as before.
Tell me, I’ve always been very careful to follow the manufacturer’s instructions for fixing, and I have to admit my ignorance. How do you determine the clearing time?
Yes, I’m in MZ more often now, though not always; Philipp and I would be happy to pop round sometime – you’re more or less on the way.
Samuli
RomanJRohleder
Samuli,
>How do you determine the clearing time?
Put some undeveloped film – such as the cut-off end – into the fixer bath and watch it. The clearing time is the time it takes for the film to clear and for the base to become streak-free and transparent.
Double this time for flat-bed processors, triple it for two-bath fixing – with two-bath fixing, it will take twice the double time.
>Yeah, I’m in MZ more often now but not always; Philipp and I would be happy to pop round sometime,
Sure!
>You’re pretty much on the way, aren’t you?
If I’m at home; otherwise, we’d be happy to organise a group shoot in Rheinhessen or somewhere like that.
>Samuli
Roman
Gast
Hi Roman,
It’s simpler than I thought. Just to make sure I’ve got this right:
Conventional emulsions: 2 times the settling time
Flat crystals: 3 times the settling time
Two-bath process: Baths 1 and 2 each 2 times the settling time?
Samuli
RomanJRohleder
Samuli,
>Easier than I thought. Just to make sure I’ve got it right:
>Classic emulsions: 2 times the settling time
>Flat crystals: 3 times the settling time
>Two-bath process: Baths 1 and 2 each 2 times the settling time?
Yep.
Roman
fotohuisrovo
The T200 is very similar to Fuji’s Acros 100, for example, when it comes to fixing.
A 3x development time will always be within the correct range and has never caused me any problems with Fomapan T200. The film isn’t as sensitive to fixing issues as, say, Ilford Delta 400, which is bound to go wrong if you use a fixer that’s on its last legs.
Best regards,
Robert
