Oliver
Hello everyone,
I still have two old Orwochrome UT15 S8 cassettes that I’d like to develop myself.
Has anyone ever developed this film as black-and-white, i.e. not using the Orwochemie process but with standard black-and-white chemicals?
Does anyone have any timings or data on the development of Orwochrome, or any information on the Orwochrome process?
Kind regards,
Oliver
I hope you all have a lovely Boxing Day.
Abi
Hi Oliver,
Do you know which Orwo processes the films were originally developed using? Because if I know that, I can look up the formula for the primary developer and the processing times in a book. In my book, I only have the processes for UT 18/21 (Process 9165) and UT 13/16 (Process 9160).
Instead of the colour developing agent, use a black-and-white positive developer.
Regards, Abi
Oliver
Hi Abi
No, I can’t tell you which process is for the UT15. The question is whether I can even get it to reverse to black and white using a first development, bleaching, cleaning, intermediate exposure, second development and fixing.
The old Agfa Moviechrome already fails during the second development with the emulsion coming off. I still have some old Ektachrome here (EM-26 process) but haven’t tested it yet.
I think the process for the UT13/16 is the most similar to that of the UT15. I believe the UT13/16 is the predecessor of the UT15.
Kind regards,
Oliver
RomanJRohleder
Oliver,
>Nah, I can’t tell you what the process is for the UT15. The question is whether I can even get it to reverse to black-and-white using 1. development, bleaching, cleaning, intermediate exposure, 2. development and fixing.
Does the film have a silver AHU layer underneath the emulsion? If you don’t know, pop a scrap into the fixer; if it clears up, everything’s fine and you can use a normal black-and-white Diakit on it.
If not, use the following method:
Initial development, second development using thiourea toner, bleach-fixing.
But why bother? Two films aren’t the end of the world; the results will be mediocre at best anyway, and the material will be used up by the time you get your first usable results.
Pop them in your personal film shrine alongside the other rarities...
Roman
Oliver
Hi Roman,
Who says the results have to be top-notch? Mediocre to rubbish is good enough for me. I just want to prevent the emulsion from peeling off. If I want top-notch quality, I’ll buy new films and have them developed elsewhere.
What exactly is a thiourea toner?
Is there a description online somewhere for the development process you mentioned (initial development, secondary development using a thiourea toner, bleach-fixing) and details on approximate times, applications, preparing the solution yourself, etc.?
Kind regards,
Oliver
RomanJRohleder
Oliver,
You can get thiourea toner here in the shop under the name "Sepiatoner". You only need the second part of the mixture; the Bleach bath stays in the bottle.
Want more details? Have a look on drf; I wrote something about it there ages ago.
Roman
Oliver
Hello Roman
What exactly is this for?
Kind regards,
Oliver
RomanJRohleder
Oliver,
The newsgroup is de.rec.fotografie.
Roman
Abi
Hello Oliver,
A while ago, I tried developing some UT 18 KB film. On my first attempt, I bleached it with Bleach-Fix (from the C-41 kit) only after the colour developing agent, and the result was disappointing. On my second attempt, I used a black-and-white Bleach bath (as found in any black-and-white slide kit), and the result was better. In your case, I would process the film in the black-and-white Bleach bath as in the black-and-white reversal process, i.e. after the initial development. If you have a Bleach bath based on potassium permanganate, use distilled water and a paper filter to filter the solution, otherwise you’ll end up with ugly spots on the film.
I would develop the film in a black-and-white positive developer during the second development, or use a black-and-white slide kit straight away. It’s best to determine the initial development time using a small scrap of film. You can still use toner afterwards; it’ll definitely give a nice warm tone. Another little tip: add about 10ml of formalin solution per litre to the wetting agent (available as a 35% solution at the chemist’s); this should improve the cross-linking of the film emulsion.
Regards, Abi
