Differences in sharpness with photographic papers?

william5 · 2005-10-24T21:16:23+00:00

Kann es Unterschiede in der Schärfe bei verschiedenen Fotopapieren geben? Bei mir ist dies im Vergleich zweier Papiere aufgetreten: Classic Warmton (FPW-1)...

william5

Can there be differences in sharpness between different types of photographic paper? I noticed this when comparing two types of paper: Classic Warmton (FPW-1) 18x24 and Tetenal Work, normal gradient, also 18x24. Both were printed consecutively from the same negative and underwent the same chemical process. Is it possible that contrast-reversal papers produce an image that is out of focus due to their two emulsions? Best regards, Jens

Gast

Hello I can only agree with Jens on this. When comparing the Varioclassic PE and Ilford Multigrade side by side, I find the Multigrade somehow more pleasing... although I do prefer the tonal quality of the Varioclassic. I reckon Mirko could shed some light on this for us; I don’t see any real problem with the observation – but I am certainly interested. Best regards from the Rhine Maik

skahde

This is purely a contrast effect. No two sheets of paper have exactly the same contrast, and papers with higher contrast always appear more attractive to the eye. Adjust the contrast (expose the grey scale), repeat the comparison, and this effect will reliably disappear. Best regards, Stefan

william5

This is purely a contrast effect. No two sheets of paper have exactly the same contrast, and papers with higher contrast always appear more attractive to the eye. Adjust the contrast (expose the grey scale), repeat the comparison, and this effect will reliably disappear. Best regards Stefan [right][post="4799"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right]

Hello Stefan, I am well aware of this contrast issue. However, I don’t think that explains it in this case. I produced prints with increasing contrast from the same subject, under otherwise identical conditions. And the difference remained. I first noticed the effect itself because of a ‘speck of dust’ on the negative, which had a very sharp edge on the Tetenal paper, whereas on the Classic paper this edge is rather soft. A view under a magnifying glass showed this beyond doubt. Unfortunately, I just can’t scan it. Jens

skahde

I first really noticed the effect itself because of a ‘speck of dust’ on the negative, which had a very sharp edge on the Tetenal paper, whereas on the Classic paper this edge is rather soft. A closer look under a magnifying glass confirmed this beyond doubt.

Interesting. What if you expose a razor blade or a similarly smooth edge as a photogram onto the paper – ensuring the surrounding area doesn’t turn completely black – would there also be a darker edge effect at the very edge of the blade? Edge effects on paper – as if that were something completely new... Best regards, Stefan

william5

Hi Stefan, are you saying that, for the photogram, I should keep the area of exposure dark grey, for example?

skahde

Yes, exactly. There should be a darker edge where the white background meets the image. Ultimately, there are only three ways to make an image appear sharper: higher resolution (which doesn’t matter with paper, as long as you’re not using a magnifying glass), contrast, and edge effects. I’ve never heard of or read about edge effects in relation to paper, but of course: why shouldn’t that work? Best regards, Stefan

MirkoBoeddecker

So normally this effect is negligible, as the enlargement of the negative means that the limitations always lie with the negative or the lens, and not with the sharpness, graininess or resolution of the paper. Or to put it another way: all the parameters described above are always better in the paper (due to the enlargement) than in the projected image, and so increasing these parameters does not result in a more sharp, finer-grained or higher-resolution image. In some exceptional cases, however, this rule is broken. This includes, for example, the test method mentioned above using a razor blade on the paper. Or contact prints from 30x40 cm negatives, or very small enlargements of extremely high-resolution films using top-quality lenses. We haven’t measured anything here so far because it’s practically insignificant, but I know from some customers in the US that they prefer Museum paper to Polywarmton for their 40x50 cm contact prints because it’s supposedly more noticeable in terms of sharpness. Incidentally, painting the enlarger table black also helps. Photographic paper has no antihalation coating, and PE paper can show slight halation at the edges with high contrasts, which can be eliminated in this way. Best regards, Mirko