Oliver
Hello
Yesterday I developed an old Agfa Super 8 film into a black-and-white negative. Apart from the emulsion being slightly yellowish, everything was Super 8! The antihalation coating dissolved completely. Everything went perfectly
Today I wanted to reverse the remaining 7 metres of film. So here goes:
1. Dokumol 1+10 for 14 minutes
2. Rinsing 3 mins
3. Bleaching 8 mins (100ml 10% sulphuric acid, 900ml water, 2g potassium permanganate)
4. Rinsing 3 mins
5. Cleaning (Foma Cleaner 1+10) 4 mins
6. Rinsing 2 mins
7. Intermediate exposure in water 1 min.
8. Secondary development 9 min. (using the mixture from the first development)
9. Rinsing 3 min.
10. Fixing 4 min. (Tetenal Superfix 1+8)
11. Rinsing 10 min.
Opened the Lomotank and nearly threw up! The antihalation coating had only separated from the film by about 70%. (Unlike during negative development, where it had separated 100%.) What’s more, I’d already peeled off the emulsion at the edge of the film and it was clear!?!?!?!?! What did I do wrong? I’ve no idea? During negative development, I used the first developer at around 30°C, and for reversal development at 20°C. Could that be why the antihalation coating separated more easily?
Why is the emulsion partly gone? The residue comes off easily when wiped away with my fingers!
Could it be because E6 film is developed at 38°C and the antihalation layer comes off more easily than at 20°C?
But why is the emulsion gone at the edges?
Kind regards,
Oliver
Gast
Hi Oliver,
It’s quite simple:
Throwing an ‘old’ film into a bath it doesn’t really belong in, at whatever temperature, is something you should try out first with a test strip, not with 7 metres.
I’d say that the negative development was just a stroke of luck.
For standard processes, there are manufacturer’s specifications and empirical values, but for an E6 film that’s been lying around who knows how and for how long?
I’m not saying it can’t work, but until you know how, you’ll probably go through a few more test strips.
Regards
Martin
Oliver
Right, I’ve given it another go.
The antihalation protection comes off completely during the first development.
Then bleaching and cleaning. I’ve reduced the rinsing times to 1 minute.
When I look at the film after cleaning, it has a whitish-beige tint, just as it should. However, this emulsion has partially come away from the base film! A faint image can be seen beneath this emulsion.
If I were to develop it a second time now, that would be ideal, but this whitish, beige mass will also turn black – yet it’s of no use to me if it detaches from the base film!!!
Has anyone ever developed an E6 film as a black-and-white reversal film?
Kind regards,
Oliver
Oliver
Hello
I’ve been told that I should make the bleach bath weaker:
50 ml 10% sulphuric acid + 2 g potassium permanganate + 950 ml water.
Previously:
100 ml 10% sulphuric acid + 2 g potassium permanganate + 900 ml water.
The first development should also only be 5 minutes with Dokumol!
Does anyone else have any ideas???
Kind regards,
Oliver
Gast
Has anyone ever developed an E6 film as black-and-white reversal film?
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Not me, but why are you constantly mentioning an ‘E6’? Earlier on, you wrote that you want to develop an Agfa Super 8 film. Is that a Moviechrome or not? If so, then the film isn’t for E-6, is it?
Oliver
Hello Alexander
It’s an Agfa Moviechrome. This film can also be developed using E-6 chemicals. I can’t say which chemicals or process are intended for the Moviechrome.
The Moviechrome develops into a black-and-white negative without any problems; it’s only when processed as a colour slide that the emulsion breaks down!
Kind regards,
Oliver
MirkoBoeddecker
Basically, the same rule applies to Agfa as to ADOX (see my numerous warnings regarding efke/ADOX films): the higher the temperature, the greater the risk of emulsion separation!
Then there’s the issue of movement.
Do you happen to rinse with warm water and high pressure, or do you tend to give your Lomo tank a rather vigorous shake (I know, you really shouldn’t...)?
Have you ever tried using a stop bath?
If you use a stop bath, don’t forget that the processing times will be longer!
Best regards,
Mirko
Oliver
Hi Mirko, thanks
I ran another test strip at 20°C and the light-blocking film had completely come off. And the streak looked just as rubbish at the end of the process. I’ve also made the Bleach bath weaker. So 50ml of 10% sulphuric acid to 950ml of water + potassium permanganate.
But I noticed that the test strip already had small white spots after about 6 minutes in Dokumol 1+10.
Yes, you can agitate/rotate the Lomotank insert vigorously.
I did another test strip, moving the film as little as possible, and it was slightly better.
Developing bath, hmmm. I think I read about it somewhere in connection with the Agfa Scala, including how to prepare it yourself...
Kind regards,
Oliver
