CPD
Hello,
Yesterday I made slides on Ilford Ortho film using the contact printing method from 4x5" negatives.
THEY’RE NOT GOOD!!! At any rate, they don’t live up to my expectations.
I developed them in Rodinal 1:50.
I made the contact prints under the enlarger, with the head raised all the way up, using the strip method for exposure times – they’re still a bit too short. I’m going to get a grey filter sheet for the filter drawer, although I can also close the aperture completely when making contact prints. Or is there a reason not to do that?
Right. What’s not right? I’m not getting all the detail from the negatives through. Presumably the Ortho is still too contrasty at Rodinal 1:50; perhaps a different developer would be better. I might also need to increase exposure and reduce development time. Please advise.
With paper contact prints/enlargements, you can adjust the development; with film, that’s not possible – well, it is possible, but... :D I had taken an old Beutler recommendation and a good, ready-made slide as a reference under the red lamp.
The problem is that, unlike with paper enlargements, I have to factor in another unknown variable: development time (and a suitable developer). If I change the development time, the exposure time changes too – just like with the zone system.
Is there a way to bring some system to all this trial and error?
Regards, CP
MirkoBoeddecker
CP,
We have the ADOX Printfilm with halftones especially for this sort of thing.
It’s on page 7 of the catalogue and costs a fraction of the price of Ilford Ortho.
You can process this film just like photographic paper.
Best regards,
Mirko
PS: Always use a black cardboard backing when using the contact printing method, otherwise you may end up with light spots.
CPD
Hi Mirko,
Thanks for the tip. The catalogue says you can develop the print film like ordinary photographic paper, without a special developer. Am I right in thinking that it’s developed using a paper developer?
Regards, CP
RomanJRohleder
Is there any way to bring a bit of structure to all this testing?
Regards, CP
Claus-Peter,
how about a greyscale chart? If necessary, I can lend you one of my Stouffers (T2115) in exchange for the postage, or give you a Sensit strip.
Advantage: the contrast is immediately readable, so the steps to be taken are within easy reach.
Roman
CPD
Hello Roman,
Thank you very much for your offer. I already have a grey scale.
I’d already asked this question on the large-format forum and think I’ve now pinpointed the main problem: the high temperatures. I always develop at room temperature, so I have a few containers of water standing around. I usually check the temperature with a thermometer and then adjust the development time accordingly. I didn’t do that this time, as I was developing by eye. The image development time was very short. So I fiddled with the exposure time again, and the result was a bit of a mess.
I’ll just wait for a cooler night and have another go. I’ll try the grey scale wedge as well.
Regards, CP
Gast
I’m not familiar with the material you’re using – what exactly is Ilford Ortho? Normally, you’d use cinema-grade positive film, which has a slightly steeper curve than standard film, to ensure the slide turns out brilliantly.
So I suggest you buy proper positive film, such as Swema MZ-3; that’s the film used for cinema prints, but it’s also available in 13x18.
If you can’t get hold of a film like that, Kodak should actually have something similar – it just won’t be called MZ-3. In that case, try different development times until the contrast is right and adjust the exposure time, or perform dilution of the developer if it’s a really hard film (for photographic film, perhaps 50ml of the standard paper developer solution to one litre of water).
I exposed an ORWO technical film for 60 seconds and then developed it for 3 minutes using a highly diluted developer.
You could try this: expose for 8, 16, 32, 64 seconds, then cut each sheet into three streaks and develop one for 2 minutes, the next for 3 minutes and the last for 4 minutes.
Or use developers of different dilutions and a single development time.
Oleksander
Gast
Your film must be very sensitive; "my" MZ 3 has a speed of 4–6 GOST, which is roughly equivalent to ASA.
CPD
Hello Oleksander,
Ilford Ortho is an orthochromatic – i.e. red-blind – black-and-white film that is perfectly suitable for use in a camera. It isn’t actually that steep.
As it turned out, I made a processing error: I didn’t pay attention to the temperature, and it’s been very hot over the last few days. So the image developed very quickly, which is why I shortened the exposure time.
I’ve now been working with chilled developer; the results are much better, so I think I’ll get the hang of it. I was also advised on the large-format forum to try developing the film with paper developer.
But I think I’ll just wait for a few cooler days. Keeping the temperature reasonably under control in these weather conditions is anything but easy.
Regards, CP
CPD
Hello Oleksander,
Yes, the film is 25 ASA. But that’s not a problem if you close the aperture on the enlarger and/or place a neutral density filter in the filter tray.
Best regards
CP
