Sw-dia From Normal Sw-films

ron · 2005-05-20T09:40:46+00:00

Ich würde gerne auch SW-Dias machen, und bin deshalb auf der Suche nach umkehr-geeigneten Filmen. Im Photoimpex-Katalog hab ich ja schon etliche Hinweise gef...

ron

I’d also like to try black-and-white slides, so I’m on the lookout for films suitable for the reversal process. I’ve already found quite a few suggestions in the Photoimpex catalogue; the kit of choice (in terms of value for money) is likely to be the one from Foma. The only question now is which films, apart from Fomapan 100R, are also suitable. The Rollei R3 would be interesting because of its high speed (which is rather scarce in the slide sector, at least for colour); to what extent can I utilise this in the reversal process? The Maco Ort PO 100C is also said to be suitable for slides, but does the Maco Cube 400C work as well? What about Ilford films – does anyone have any experience with them? PS: I’ve just found various recipes for reversal processes and am impressed by how different they are (one on the Photoimpex site for Fomapan 100R and one on the MACO site for the PO100C). I’m no chemist, but it’s clear even to me that they aren’t the same. Fascinating. Where on earth can you actually get hold of all this stuff without arousing suspicion of making a letter bomb?

mau

I’ve tried the Maco Ort25, the Skala, the Technikelpan and the Kodak HS IR. The Skala performed best, closely followed by the HS IR and the Ort25. The Technikelpan turned out a bit too steep for my liking. I haven’t had any experience with the R3 yet.

MirkoBoeddecker

Hi, You can reverse-develop any black-and-white film into a transparency. The only question is how clear the base will be afterwards. A Foma or Agfa will certainly still be quite grey even after the Bleach bath. Films on a clear base work really well as transparencies. The downside of clear PET bases, however, is that they lack ‘natural’ antihalation and therefore, unless this is applied using a particularly complex process (which is very expensive to manufacture), they will overexpose in the highlights (see Lucky). Examples of films with very good antihalation and clear bases include those from efke (Maco), the R3 and the FomapanR, which has even derived its antihalation technology from the E6 process. The downside of Foma is that it can only be developed using the reversal process because this antihalation does not dissolve in the standard B&W process. Another issue with PET bases: roll films tend to ‘split open’, and with 35mm films a ‘light piping effect’ similar to that of fibre-optic cables occurs, which channels light through the base from the end of the film into the cassette, potentially leading to overexposure and black spots on the film. Why am I telling you this? Answer: To explain to you why, wherever possible, we still have our films coated on the classic (and now significantly more expensive) triacetate base, rather than switching across the board to the lighter and cheaper PET base (which is also easier to reverse). However, there are early signs that Kodak and Ilford are set to switch to PET in future, primarily for cost reasons. Should that happen, we may have to follow suit as the old base disappears from the market. Best regards, Mirko

Gast

Hello, To be perfectly honest, ever since the Efke was ‘clarified’, the antihalation hasn’t been up to scratch. It’s worth giving serious thought to whether this shouldn’t be rectified. Roland

MirkoBoeddecker

Roland, That’s the whole dilemma. Even though efke still uses its own very expensive antihalation dyes, the film ‘lacks’ the additional antihalation protection provided by the acetate base. Nevertheless, for a clear base, it’s comparatively very good. However, we are currently trying to turn back the clock on a change that ‘the other Efke customer’ initiated at the time for cost reasons. Best regards, Mirko

Gast

While we're on the subject of cross-processing 'normal' colour film: has anyone here ever cross-processed a roll of Lucky 100? If so, what were the results like? Best regards Jü