KB1984
Hi there!
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As well as the roll film, I’ve now developed my first 35mm film. I used undiluted D76 for this too.
Unfortunately, spots have formed on these negatives as well. Mainly along the top edge. I’ve attached a few photos.
Please let me know if you can spot any possible causes...
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Best regards & thanks
Bartosch
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Renate
To me, that looks very much like a light leak. Just check the case and the cameras to make sure they’re light-tight.
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Best regards
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Renate
highscore
Hi
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Yes, that’s light leakage – I’ve had it too!
The same type of light damage can be seen in the camera in images 2 and 7.
If you want to be sure, mask the joints with black tape the next time you load a film.
But I think you could just replace the light seals straight away.
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Marcus
jochen53
Hello,
The film isn't properly fixed.
highscore
Yeah, Jochen
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Now that you mention it.
I hadn’t noticed that.
Do you think the two areas behind images 2 and 7 are also due to poor fixation?
Could that be caused by the reel?
Because if it was light after all, kb1984 has two problems.
Magirus
"The film hasn't been developed properly"
You can easily test that by developing it again.
Maybe fill the can a bit more next time ;-)
Regards, Bernd
KB1984
Hello everyone!
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Thanks for your advice!
I only had the light seals on my Canon A1 replaced a few weeks ago.
So I’d tend to rule out any light leak from the camera.
I set the fixing time to 7 minutes and tilted the tank once every minute. Is that too short for Kodak Tri-X?
It’s quite possible, though, that I didn’t have quite enough fixer in the tank. Can you simply ‘re-fix’ the film strips like that?
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Best regards,
Bartosch (KB1984)
fototiger
Hello,
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To me, that also looks like insufficient fixing. Those areas are particularly prone to insufficient fixing. You can tell because the under-fixed areas ‘hug’ the perforations or are in places where the film comes into contact with the developing spiral and the fixer can’t reach properly. That would be rather uncharacteristic of a light leak.
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EDIT: Tilting once every minute sounds like too little movement during fixing. I also had problems with 35mm Tri-X at first. Now I move the can continuously for the first two minutes, then every minute for a further 30 seconds.
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Yes, post-fixing is possible!
KB1984
Hey fototiger!
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Thanks for the tip! And how long do you leave the Tri-X in the fixer in total? Assuming the fixer is freshly prepared...
fototiger
With a fresh fixer, 5 minutes is easily enough for me.
However, it seems to me that Tri-X tends to take a bit longer to fix than other films. I notice this too when I run clarification tests at the same time using snippets of different films.
AntiLynd
Congratulations on your first film! [s] For a first film? [/s] Generally speaking, your negatives look great!
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Regarding your problem:
* Do the spots have the same colour tone as the regular density (caused by exposure) on the film? --> Light leak in the camera, cassette, canister... (doesn’t look like that in your case)
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* Do the spots have a silvery-brownish sheen that also changes colour depending on the viewing angle and light? --> Fixer-related problem (it certainly looks like that in your case). However, no need to panic. A longer fixing time doesn’t always help. Often, dirty, sticky, or simply irreparably rotten spirals are the cause (solution: brush thoroughly, or buy new ones if necessary). You can already see that all the areas where the problem occurs for you are points of close contact between the film and the spiral. It’s quite possible that various bits of gunk have built up there, preventing the film from being fixed properly. I have the same issue on almost all my 35mm films, but not to that extent. New Jobo spirals are somewhere near the bottom of my shopping list.
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Best regards
Nils
KB1984
Hey!
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Thank you so much for all your tips and advice.
I’ve just cleaned the Jobo tank again and will start a new fixing cycle later.
Every now and then you read that people suggest cleaning Jobo spirals with dental tablets. Does that help, or is warm water and a brush enough?
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Best regards,
Bartosch