roslie
Hello,
I’m new to this forum and have a few questions (why else would you end up here? :unsure:
I picked up a bargain a week ago and now have a Meopta Opemus 6 at home. It also came with all sorts of darkroom supplies – though the kit isn’t complete yet. I’ve worked with a Meopta Opemus 5 before and was always quite happy with it – but don’t ask me for details about the camera. I’m only just now getting to grips with all the little things you need and want to bear in mind when you buy a piece of kit like this for yourself.
The enlarger I now have sitting here is a completely standard model (it even says ‘Standard’ on it :( ) The seller also gave me a box full of older Ilford multigrade filters. I haven’t worked with multigrade paper yet, but it sounds quite exciting and I’d be tempted to try it. [COLOR=green]But when I look at the filters, they don’t look all that great anymore. What’s more, the enlarger doesn’t have a built-in filter drawer, but rather a makeshift screw-on filter holder that can be screwed onto the enlarger lens. It’s certainly good enough for a bit of a go, but I can’t imagine this solution being suitable for producing prints that you’ll really enjoy for a long time.[COLOR=green]
Just a question: if I place the filters in front of the enlarger lens, and they already have a few nicks or are dusty... won’t I end up with dust marks and defects on the print straight away? Or smudges on the filter sheets... surely you’d see those on the print, or they’d certainly have some effect?
Perhaps someone could briefly and clearly explain what I can do with my basic Opemus 6 model so that I can eventually produce decent enlargements on multigrade paper. I’ve seen that there’s a multigrade head available, but the price… I wouldn’t have thought something like that would be so expensive?! ;)
Also, the negative stage is made of plastic. I’m only familiar with the heavy metal ones with glass plates – and I’ve always got on well with those. Can you buy this version separately anywhere?
As for lenses, I’ve got a Meopta Anaret 4.5/50 and an EL-Nikkor 50mm f/2.8, which is currently fitted. Is that any good?
As I said, up until now I’ve always worked on equipment that didn’t belong to me and never really bothered much about the details and individual components, but once you decide to set something up yourself... you’re suddenly faced with loads of options and extra bits, and don’t know where to start or what’s actually worth buying. :D
So, don’t be put off by my first – and already rather long – post. I’d love to hear your suggestions and just wanted to say a friendly “Hello!” to everyone here :)
:D
Gast
The MG filters fitted under the lens must be in good condition. They may be a little dirty in the filter holder, but it is best not to use faded filters, as the gradients will no longer be accurate.
To minimise dust problems, it is actually better to use a metal printing table, and for black-and-white work, it is better to use the metal inserts. These can be reordered.
Both V-lenses are fine for use up to 30x40.
In other words, focusing is slightly easier with the 2.8 El Nikkor.
Retrofitting with the VC head is always a bit more expensive, but these filters do not cause fading.
The Heiland system (Split Grade) is ideal for processing with VC papers; it has recently also become available for Meopta (€956.00), compatible with Meograde or Color 3.
Best regards,
Fotohuis RoVo
Robert
Gast
You can get filters from FOTOIMPEX for around 10 euros; they’re clean and in perfect condition, so buy new ones.
It’s enough just to hold them under the lens. The advantage is that you can adjust the settings whilst the image is bright, and you don’t risk throwing off the sharpness by inserting the filters. It’s much easier, especially when using two gradients per image. Or use a clip on the red filter, swing the red filter out, and the gradient filter is immediately in the light without having to hold it.
Negative stages without glass have the advantage that no Newton’s rings form and you don’t have to remove dust from the glass. A single sheet of glass on top is sufficient to prevent the negative from ‘flipping’ when it heats up. I think you can remove the plates, but I’m not entirely sure. Plastic or metal doesn’t matter, as long as it works.
The Anaret is good; I’ve never used a Nikkor. With the Nikkor, the test shot is brighter due to the larger initial aperture and is therefore easier to adjust. It doesn’t matter during exposure, as you stop down anyway.
Ronald
Gast
Hi roslie,
I’ve still got a set of Ilford filters at home; they’re still in good condition. As I’ve converted my Opemus 6 A to Heiland Splitgrade, I no longer need the filters.
If you reimburse me for the postage, I’ll send them to you.
NB: The sheets have been cut to fit the Opemus 6 A’s filter drawer, so they’re no longer in their original format. However, the cut is clean and the sheets themselves are fine, even if you hold them up to the lens.
Let me know if you can use the filters!
Best regards,
Georg
georg.schomacher@web.de
