Gast
Hello, how long is the fixing time for baryta papers (Fomatone Classic MG) using Tetenal Superfix Plus?
Fixing time?
The bottle says: 1+3 – 1+9, fixing time 30–60 seconds.
I contacted Tetenal and received the following reply:
The specification applies to all materials; as a rule of thumb, for baryta
you can add 50% = 1+3 is then 45 seconds and 1+9 is then 90 seconds,
but I find these times very short; can anyone please help me?
Regards from Holland. Jelke
Gast
Jelke,
The short processing times for baryta paper (approx. 60 seconds) are fine if you’re using *fresh* fixer in a high concentration (max. 10 sheets of 24×30 cm per litre of working solution). You can then use the fixer for films or PE paper.
Best regards,
Ferdinand
MatthiasStark
Hello everyone,
You should never use a fixer that has been used for paper on film.
Paper (especially baryta) always tends to leave fine traces of ‘paper debris’
in the solution, and these are not exactly good for the film.
Using a fixer on paper, on the other hand, is not a problem.
In the case described above, I would recommend a two-bath fixing process anyway. For the first bath, you can
always use the old second bath. This way, you don’t need as much fixer as with
single-bath fixing, but you get a much better result, as the second bath is always relatively fresh.
I would still be cautious with these short times, though, especially if you’re using ‘traditional’
papers with a high silver content. Particularly if you plan to tone the prints afterwards,
insufficient fixing can have dreadful consequences.
Regards,
Matthias
Gast
Hello,
- I can only recommend a two-bath fixing process.
- While a long fixing time might feel satisfying, it’s not good for the paper.
It soaks up the fixer (baryta paper completely, PE paper at the edges) and is harder to rinse out.
- You should also be careful when using film fixer for paper, as many films (to increase sensitivity?) contain bromide and iodide – when dissolved in the fixer, this limits its capacity.
Jakob
MatthiasStark
Hi Jakob,
That’s why I use a pH-neutral fixer (LP-Fix Neutral). That sorts out the problem with
“acidification”.
Best regards,
Matthias
