dpc
Hello!
Similar questions have come up in the forum before, in the context of other issues.
But now I’d like to ask this as a separate question:
Can I tone ready-made (baryta) prints (fixed, rinsed, dried) later using selenium (Kodak) without compromising the quality? Incidentally, the prints have been dry for a few days – so they’re not heirlooms.
Pre-soak? If so, for how long?
How long should I re-rinse them for?
Is there anything else to say on this? (Why) Is it better to tone immediately after the regular final rinse, rather than a few days later?
dpc
Gast
>> Can I tone ready-made (baryta) prints (fixed, rinsed, dried) later using selenium (Kodak) without compromising the quality?
Yes.
>> Should I pre-soak them?
Yes, briefly (to prevent staining).
>> How long should I soak them for?
Hmm, I’d say at least 20 minutes.
Ferdinand
WolfgangMoersch
>>Hmm, I’d say at least 20 minutes.
Yes, because the toner also contains ammonium thiosulphate
>>Isn’t it better to tone immediately after the regular final rinse, rather than a few days later?
Not after, but before the regular final rinse (see above)!
A five-minute washing before toning is more than sufficient; if using a neutral or alkaline fixer, an intermediate washing is not necessary.
Gast
>> A five-minute washing before toning is more than sufficient; if using a neutral or alkaline fixer, an intermediate washing is not necessary.
My experience has been different. I use Agfa FX-UNIVERSAL as my fixer, and prints that haven’t been washed for at least five minutes between steps get ruined in the selenium toner – that is, they take on a yellowish cast.
MatthiasStark
Hello,
For me, a quick rinse followed by 2–3 minutes of washing before the selenium toner is enough. My fixer: LP-Fix Neutral.
Unfortunately, I can’t say anything about the Agfa fixer, but I certainly haven’t had any problems with Fix Neutral.
Best regards,
Matthias
WolfgangMoersch
Hello Ferdinand,
I’ve only heard about such “nasty tricks” second-hand. I have no experience with Fix Universal, but I’ve never had any problems with the fast ammonium thiosulphate fixers with low acidity (Maco, Calbe, Tetenal ‘odourless’ or ‘neutral’), though that doesn’t mean the cause lies solely in the pH value.
What turns “yellow” – just the whites?
In any case, “rinsing” before selenium toner with the well-known products from Kodak, Maco or Amaloco is certainly unnecessary.
I wouldn’t claim that pre-treatment in a water-retention aid is more economical than high water consumption; I used to do it that way for safety reasons. Since I’ve been making the fixer myself, I can do without it because I know what’s in it.
Regards
wm
Gast
>> So who turns 'yellow' – only the white people?
Yes.
Best regards,
Ferdinand