Gast
Hello!
I’m planning to enlarge my 6x6 colour slides onto paper.
That’s why I’ve bought a Color 3 colour head for my Opemus 6.
Unfortunately, I don’t have a user manual for the colour head.
Could any of you perhaps help me out (where to buy one / a copy)?
As I’ve only ever dealt with b/w enlargements so far, I’m not quite sure what chemicals, colour analysers etc. are required.
Is it absolutely necessary to use developing trays, or is tray processing easier, as I’m already familiar with it from black-and-white photography? Is an inexpensive colour analyser (Meosix Color) sufficient for me as a beginner, or should I buy a more expensive one straight away?
I’d be very grateful for any kind of answer or advice!!!
Regards, Jörg
MirkoBoeddecker
Hi Jürgen,
Do you really want to print colour slides?
In that case, the answer to all your questions is: yes, and much more than you can imagine.
It’s much easier with colour negatives.
All you need is two trays, a Colortec Print Kit for room temperature, a colour star or a bit of imagination, and you’re good to go.
Instructions: you won’t need any, provided the unit sits on your Opemus, lights up and has a 6x6 mixing chamber inside.
You’ll need a book on colour enlargement :)
Mirko
Gast
Hi Jän,
The Ilfochrome system produces the highest-quality colour prints and is also the most user-friendly for amateurs (in terms of temperature fluctuations), but unfortunately it is also the most expensive.
It is SIGNIFICANTLY easier to produce prints from slides than from negatives. Reason: the slide is much easier to assess (brightness and, if applicable, colour cast). Once you have got to grips with a particular film type (e.g. Ektachrome 100), it is often possible to get a good print straight away, i.e. without test strips and without an analyser.
You can find more information on the website www.ilford.com
Tank processing isn’t an option, as absolute darkness is essential. With the drum, you also have the advantage of always working with fresh chemicals. Furthermore, the Bleach bath smells absolutely awful when it comes into contact with the developer. So go for the drum.
Regards
Ferdinand
MirkoBoeddecker
Ferdinand,
So it is possible after all. Congratulations and welcome back!
I was starting to worry...
Jän,
Ferdinand is right – a standard lens won’t do, but with a small CPA, the Ilfochrome is really great fun.
It’s definitely the best there is in terms of image quality and... well, obviously, if the slide isn’t too dark, it’s easy to enlarge.
Regards,
Mirko
MirkoBoeddecker
I’d forgotten,
I think we still have some PX30 chemicals and paper in the clearance section (it was a customer order that wasn’t collected...).
Get in touch if you’re interested.
Mirko
MirkoBoeddecker
Oh Ferdinand,
to be honest, we really should tell the young man that room temperature isn’t an option...
The Colortec RA-4 process only works in complete darkness, but at least at 18–26 degrees.
Ilfochrome has to maintain a temperature of plus or minus a quarter of a degree – correct me if I’m wrong.
Best regards,
Mirko
Gast
Hello Mirko/Jän,
Ilfochrome can be processed at temperatures between 20 and 30 degrees. According to Ilford, 24 degrees is ideal. It works in the same way as developing black-and-white film, i.e. you can check the temperature at the start of processing and adjust the development time (bath 1) if necessary. The other stages come towards the end, meaning they aren’t temperature-critical in the sense that a slightly longer time won’t cause any harm (within reason, of course).
It may be that for extremely critical applications, a correction to the colour filtration is required at different times/temperatures. Otherwise, I would consider the process to be very forgiving. In fact, I started enlarging with Cibachrome (as it was called back then) – using an Opemus and insert filters. The images still look just as good today as they did back then. It was Kodachrome 25, though – the Efke 25 of transparency films, so to speak (I just couldn’t resist that one).
Regards
Ferdinand
Gast
...and since I’m also working with a Color3 head on a Meopta Opemus 6, here are the operating instructions (although it’s all pretty straightforward anyway):
So: the plug from the transformer is connected to the exposure timer, the plug from the head to the transformer, which also has the on/off switch;
on the head are the 3 controls for Y(ellow), C(yan) and M(agenta) to eliminate colour casts, next to which is a density control that allows you to make the light darker, so to speak (so that the exposure times don’t become too short; on the far right of the head is a lever to switch off the dim control (e.g. for brighter light when focusing); on the far left of the head is a lever to switch off the colour controls (for white light); incidentally, one (OK, I) tends to forget to reset both levers after focusing, whereupon one (I) gets terribly fed up with a ruined sheet…
Mounting on the Opemus: unscrew the small screws on the sides, lower the condenser head, attach the appropriate mixing box to the colour head, place it on the Opemus, and tighten the small screws.
Roman
Gast
Hello Mirko, Ferdinand and Roman,
Thank you very much for all the information and advice.
Best regards,
Jü
