EFKE 25 have a flat effect

micha · 2004-03-12T11:58:39+00:00

Hallo Mir kommt das irgendwie etwas komisch vor. Wenn ich ein und das selbe Motiv mal mit Efke 100 ISO 100 belichte ist der Himmel meinetwegen auf dem Negat...

micha

Hello This all seems a bit odd to me. When I expose the exact same subject using Efke 100 at ISO 100, the sky appears dark on the negative. But when I convert the exposure time to ISO 25 and use Efke 25, I end up with a washed-out negative. So the sky isn’t dark, but quite blue? I develop the EFKE 25 in F09 at 1:80 for 12 minutes and the 100 for 26 minutes. Can anyone explain this to me? Are your development times perhaps incorrect? Best regards, Micha

Gast

Micha, First of all, you need to figure out whether you’re underexposing or underdeveloping. We’ll take it from there. Have a look to see if the film strip at the start is completely saturated. If the one from the KB 25 is lighter than the one from the KB 100, the KB 25 was underdeveloped. Best regards, Mirko

Gast

Hello So, for example, I’m performing the exposure on the 100PL at 11/500 and on the Efke 25PL at 5.6/500 using the same subject, the same lens and the same shutter speed, and I’m developing them as described above. What am I doing wrong? Micha

Gast

Micha, I don’t really understand what you mean about the exposure time. We need to establish whether the film was subjected to underexposure or underdevelopment in order to identify the problem. There are countless factors relating to exposure and development that can have an impact. There are no absolute figures. Even the development times in our table are only guidelines. For example, 100-speed film is much less sensitive to incorrect exposure and development than 25-speed film. Did you set the temperatures and agitation speed precisely? Underexposure can usually be recognised by the fact that the frame numbers and the film strip at the start are pale. If the frame numbers and the film strip at the start are deep black and the images are washed out, it was probably subject to underexposure. So first compare the start of the 100 film with that of the 25 film. If it is noticeably washed out, develop it 20% longer next time, compare again, and so on. It is important to keep all other parameters constant. Please do not start changing two or three ‘unknowns’ at once (e.g. longer exposure and longer development). Developer temperature, dilution, dilution factor, agitation, age of the concentrate and water hardness must all be taken into account. Best regards, Mirko

Gast

Hi Mirko. Unfortunately, I don’t have the film numbers. They’re sheet films, you see. That’s why I mention the exposure time – with older lenses, there’s often a big difference in accuracy :rolleyes:, but not for me, as I’ve got a digital shutter :D :D :D. As for the temperature and the development process, I’m on the safe side too, Rotiere. Both films are pre-warmed for 5 minutes. The result certainly isn’t down to too little developer, as the occasional mis-exposure :D sometimes results in one or two black negatives. I like to overexpose the Efke 100 by one stop because of the shadows... I usually get very good detail in the highlights and shadows. The 25, I don’t know – if I just convert the ISO, the negative looks completely different. The sky isn’t dark, but a sort of medium grey. I’ll try treating the Efke 25 generally like a 12. Maybe that’ll help. Do you have any tips? Thanks Micha

Gast

I wouldn’t do that. The efke is a genuine 25 ISO. The 100 is actually the same. Overexposure quickly leads to unusable results. Why not try developing it for a longer time first? Mirko

micha

Why not try a slower development time to start with?

No sooner said than done. Sheet 1 like Efke 100, so 1:80 F09 for 26 mins. It looks much better already. Sheet 2 1:80 F09 like Efke 50, so 16 mins. A touch lighter. I’ll run them through the scanner; maybe I’ll find a solution there. On the F09 bottle, all the Efke films are listed as 6–7 mins at 1:40. I really think that’s too short. Best regards, Micha