micha
Hi, now that I’ve decided on a Joboplan film canister, I’d really appreciate some opinions on the processor. The CPA is larger. Do you really need that? Do the models differ in terms of temperature accuracy? Processor with or without a lift? Do the new Joboplan canisters fit the old processors as well??
Lots of questions, I know?
But I’d be incredibly grateful for any feedback.
Micha
Urnes
Hi micha,
So, I recently picked up a first-generation CPE without a lift on eBay. It’s not exactly in the best condition anymore, but it’s extremely robust. And you can still get all the spare parts from Jobo.
All Jobo canisters with a magnetic ring fit onto the old processor, even the older ones. Both for 35mm and sheet film. However, if you use the small canisters, you also need to use the small reel holder, which Jobo sells for a mere €10.50 including postage.
The size is fine for me. You can develop images up to a maximum of 30x40 cm in it. And if you upgrade your Jobo canister, I think you can even fit up to 18 sheet films in it. I’ve decided to do without the lift for now. If you used to shake the large canister by hand, the CPE is pure luxury in itself. The temperature accuracy is pretty good – I’d say ± 0.5 degrees; I always double-check with the lab thermometer. But that’s also because the CPE only has a single button for adjustment and no digital display showing the exact degree. The temperature is then maintained precisely, though. It also works great if you want to heat up sepia toner to 30 degrees. I have the problem that my basement is quite cool in winter, despite the heating, so this thing is worth its weight in gold.
With a bit of searching, you’ll find the user manuals for the devices, including the specifications, in the download area on the Jobo website.
Right, that’s all I can think of for now.
Regards, Sven.
Gast
Hi Micha,
I’d definitely recommend the lift, as it makes loading the film much quicker and easier, and you don’t have to take the can out, open it, and so on after every bath...
It’s all fine as long as you’re working with slow-acting developers, but I once ruined a roll of film in Emofin (hand-rolled, but the problem is the same) because the solution only rises to the middle of the film, and by the time the rolling starts, you’ve got a ridge.
Since you’re asking so specifically about temperature, I assume you want colour as well, and that’s just as much of a faff.
The only problem is that when emptying it, the tray must be full of water or otherwise secured in some way, otherwise you’ll rip the whole thing off the table with the lever. (Only a problem if the temperature is room temperature, anyway).
Regards
Martin
micha
Well, what about compatibility? Between the old processors and the new drums, or does it not matter?
Have a go at it
Micha
Urnes
Hi Micha,
There aren’t really any ‘new’ drums. The canisters in their current form, with the red ring and the red rubber lid, have certainly been around for 15 years (if that’s long enough) and fit into the CPE, provided they have the magnetic ring on the bottom. Canisters without a magnetic ring can be retrofitted. There are also old, completely black drums with plastic lids, which can be run through the processors without any problems. According to the label on the drum, they can also hold sheet film up to 18x24, but I haven’t yet figured out how that works with the old holders.
Incidentally, it doesn’t matter whether you use the 1500 drums for 35mm and medium format or the large 2500 drums for sheet film. You just need to change the roller. However, it is also possible to develop 35mm and medium format film in the 2500 ‘sheet film’ canister; for this, you’ll need the appropriate spirals that fit the canister. These are quite expensive when bought new, though. You can even use the extension pieces from the paper drums for the film drums. Jobo supplies the necessary extensions for the central tube.
Regards, Sven
micha
Hi, I’ve just picked up a CPE2 with a lift and a Jobo Timer 16 on eBay. Is there actually a formula that calculates the times for rotation versus tilting?
I’ve got F9/R09 at the moment and need the times for Foma 100/Efke 100/Efke 25 for the rotation.
Do you have any tips??
Regards, Micha
Urnes
Hi Micha,
First of all, congratulations on your purchase. As far as development times are concerned, both Jobo and Ilford recommend pre-soaking the film in the drum for 5 minutes and then using the times specified for agitation development. That works quite well for me too. And it gives you a starting point.
Best regards, Sven.
Gast
Hi Sven. I gave it a go at lunchtime with two sheets of Efke 25. It went quite well. I’m absolutely chuffed with the Jobo Timer. It’s definitely, SOOOOOOOO much less of a faff than before.
Micha
Urnes
That’s what I’m saying. But above all, you can pop out for a drink now and then without worrying about missing the next shot. :-)) But joking aside, it really is a huge relief when you’ve got 10–20 sheet films lying around waiting to be developed.
Sven.
Gast
Hi, I’ve got another question.
Based on my experience so far, I fill the spiral with a maximum of 4 films. Have you ever developed 2 spirals at once??
Does anyone have a spare flat-bed film spiral????
Regards, Micha
Urnes
Hi Micha,
I’ve now got into the habit of loading the spiral with six films. I’m slowly getting the hang of not putting two films into the same slot. To develop two spirals at the same time, though, you need a large canister or an extension for both the canister and the centre tube; then, if you have one, you can even fit three spirals in. I haven’t tried that yet, though. But why should it work any differently from a single spiral? I’m also seriously considering whether I can find an extension kit and two spirals somewhere cheaply. If it works for you first, do let me know.
Regards, Sven.
Gast
I’ve got plenty of drums, just no flat film spirals. But I can spare 4 standard spirals.
Regards, Micha
P.S. I’m only taking 4 because that’s the closest to the amount in one film, and because 3 films stick together on one side for me, even when they’re loaded properly. I haven’t noticed any poorer development results, but that could just be down to my eyes. Do you also have the problem that the plastic hooks scratch the emulsion?
Urnes
Hi Micha,
I’ve got the same problem with the plastic tabs. Usually, I just carefully bend the films until they pop out of the guide at the top or bottom, and then I take them out. Another thing I struggle with is attaching the two plastic tabs that are supposed to stop the films from slipping out. I have to do it once in the light without a film every time, otherwise I’m lost in the dark. When I was still tilting the film, I just left the things out. But in the rotation, the parts do seem to serve a purpose after all.
Regards, Sven.
Gast
Hi Sven,
I only have damage in places where the barbs scrape during development. Not when I pull the sheet films out. I don’t have that sort of anti-slip barb at all. Do you place the films with the emulsion side facing outwards or inwards??
Micha
Urnes
Hi Micha,
I reckon the emulsion is usually on the outside. I haven’t really given it much thought. Especially when the films have fallen out for the third time, I didn’t really care. :-)) But joking aside, now that I think about it, it probably makes sense to place the emulsion side facing inwards. Because the mechanical stress when loading them should be less. I still mostly use the old 9x12 million-fold cassettes. It’s always a bit of a faff when, in the dark with six cassettes, you first have to pull the slider all the way out, then release the retaining mechanism on the holder frame, only to realise that you have to pull the frame further forward to get the film out. That said, the flatness isn’t bad thanks to the rear pressure plate. Well, and that’s when I’m always glad that all the films are properly seated in the spiral.
The anti-slip hooks are two plates that snap into place to the left and right of the slots. They’re not only meant to prevent the film from slipping out of the spiral but also to improve circulation during rotation. And as they look quite aerodynamic, I reckon it makes perfect sense to use them if you’ve got them.
Regards, Sven.
Gast
Hi Sven
At least someone’s replying here.
Still having trouble with the baryta paper.
Last time I only managed to get one film to develop properly. I only looked for the footnote for 3 minutes! I’m now trying to position the coated side facing inwards; I didn’t have any damaged areas last time.
See you later
Micha
P.S. I can highly recommend the Fidelity Elite flatbed cassettes. Very foolproof to use. ;) :lol:
Gast
Hi Micha,
Why don’t you start a new thread about the baryta frustration? Maybe there are others out there who want to join in the moaning.
It reminds me a lot of my first shots on 55mm Polaroid film, when I came down the basement stairs feeling ever so proud with the negatives to stick them down, only for them to land rather roughly on the floor. They’re incredibly prone to scratches. But I suppose that’ll give the prints a bit of an artistic touch.
The Fidelity backs are really good. However, you do need the internal back, which my Linhof Standard Press unfortunately doesn’t have yet. And although I still have a Technika IV sitting in the cupboard, I keep reaching for the old Press, and the prices for a different back keep getting out of hand on eBay too.
Regards, Sven.
