jokus
I doubt it, but apparently the previous owner used it for this. I wanted to get back into it, but apart from the enlarger, I couldn’t find any of my kit; I’ve now got everything I need together, but the new lamp is green – that can’t be right, can it, given the multi-grade paper?
If I use two bicycle rear lights as a temporary fix, is the red ‘red’ enough?
Hmm, that’s the only thing stopping me from getting started now...
?
Regards, Uwe
HenningH
Green is only possible with fixed gradation.
Why not have a go and see if the red rear lights are covered in fog (just Google ‘fog test’).
Wolf_XL
... apparently, the urge to tinker is sometimes stronger than common sense... What on earth are red LED lights for???
Olivinyl
Hello everyone,
Otherwise, go for these: Osram 80003 red Decospot LED for an E14 socket, 230V, 0.7 watts
A lovely bright red light.
Works perfectly with ADOX MCP/MCC and Fomaspeed Variant Multigrade papers. I haven’t tried Ilford Multigrade, but it shouldn’t be a problem either.
Best regards, Oliver
jokus
That was quick. Thanks – I hadn’t come across the Osram light before, but I think that’ll be the one I go for. As for the bike rear lights – I used to run a shop – so I’ve still got plenty of those left, so why not?
Right then, I’ll get started...
Rolf-Werner
Red LEDs always have a small peak in the green part of the spectrum. Incidentally, you can also see this small peak on a CD if you hold it up to an LED lamp. However, this is easily sorted out with a red filter if necessary. I don’t need it at the moment, but I tend to prefer rather dim lighting, where it can’t do any harm anyway.
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Best regards,
Rolf
jonny
Red LEDs always have a small peak in the green part of the spectrum. You can actually see this small peak on a CD if you hold it up to an LED lamp. But you can easily sort this out with a red filter if necessary. I don’t need it at the moment, but I tend to prefer rather dim lighting anyway, so it can’t do any harm.
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Regards,
Rolf
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The Osram LED bulb mentioned definitely shows
no green spectral components (in the well-known CD test), is really very bright and (within reasonable limits) glare-free. Nevertheless, it is advisable to carry out a glare test with your own setup before use. The bulb has been the subject of discussion for several years now, and many people (like me) will have been using it for quite some time. It cannot therefore be ruled out that product changes have been made over time, and that the hardware sold today is no longer 100% identical to that of five years ago. A test is the safest bet!
Renate
It may be that the CD test does not show any green component at the far end of the spectrum. A spectroscope will definitely show this, however. That is why I always recommend using an additional red filter. It doesn’t get in the way, but it gives you some extra time, which is essential when using baryta paper.
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Foma paper, for example, is less tolerant than ADOX or Ilford. Foma paper already shows a haze under orange light, and red LEDs produce even more of this than green ones.
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Best regards,
Renate
TR
Just do a shade test on your own paper using your own lamp in your own room, and everything will become clear :spudnikwaving:
tomsand
When I’m travelling, this is exactly what I take with me – two red bicycle lights (LED). Back at the lab, I’ve started using red LEDs as well; you can get them on Amazon for just a few euros, complete with a mains adapter. They provide an amazingly bright light, yet I don’t have any issues with glare.
RalfMichael
Hello everyone,
It’s a bit odd, but I have an old locomotive lantern hanging on the wall which has a fold-out red filter in the lamp for use as a tail light. I unscrewed it from a decommissioned steam locomotive back in 1972 and have been using it as a Duka lamp ever since. I haven’t had any problems with it so far with any type of SW documents. (I think the idea with the bicycle rear lights is brilliant too, though)
Best regards, Ralf
Gast
Test post
