Oldschool
Hello everyone, after a long break from analogue photography, I’ve decided to dive straight back in with the fascinating topic of black-and-white reversal processing. After two failed attempts using recipes from the internet, I’ve now achieved usable results straight away using the Ilford guide.
However, I always get a grey fog on the unexposed start of the film, which fortunately is barely visible in the images but runs through the entire roll. There is no discernible difference between Ilford HP4+ and Delta 100 in this respect.
My procedure:
I use a Jobo 1510 developing tank and fill it with 250ml each time.
During the first development, I tilt the tank four times every 15 seconds and then tap it gently on the table to release any air bubbles. Depending on the temperature, I then have a development time of 12 minutes at 20 degrees (9 minutes at 23 degrees)
After the intermediate rinse with the Jobo Cascade (2 mins), I then fill the tank with the Bleach bath consisting of potassium permanganate solution and sulphuric acid. Ilford specifies that the tank must be kept in constant motion. This means I tilt the tank continuously for 5 minutes and tap it against the table occasionally.
With the fixing bath, after the intermediate rinse, I proceed in exactly the same way as with the initial development: tilting 4 times every 15 seconds and giving it a shake.
For the subsequent second exposure, I have now switched to exposing each side for 1 minute underwater in a white cereal bowl. A 60W desk lamp at a distance of around 20 cm. During my first attempts, I had the impression that I’d overdone it slightly; this was partly evident from the black stripes between the images, which looked a bit frayed. In this instance, I’d worked with two 60W bulbs placed very close together for four minutes.
For the second development and fixing, the same procedure applies: tilting the tank four times every 15 seconds.
Final rinsing with the Jobo Cascade for 3–5 minutes at 20 degrees, followed by 30 seconds in a wetting agent bath (1:400) in deionised water.
As suggested, I use Ilford PQ Universal as the developer, Tetenal SuperFix as the fixer, and Tetenal Mirasol as the wetting agent bath. I have taken all the mixing ratios directly from the Ilford documentation.
I look forward to your suggestions for improvement
Regards
Benjamin
P.S: I have attached two images to illustrate the problem. It is also interesting to note that the issue always occurs on the part of the film that faces the bottom of the canister.
AndreasD
Hello Benjamin,
I’ve been developing Fomapan R100 and Adox Scala 160 into slides using Foma chemicals
for many years. I’ve also used Ilford 100 Delta on occasion, though I’m not particularly happy with the results when using Foma chemicals.
However, I haven’t experienced the phenomenon you described yet. Nevertheless, here are a few of my observations:
- Delta 100 and HP don’t have a clear base like Fomapan R100 and Scala 160. Consequently, there is generally a slight haze across the entire film.
- I keep the film moving throughout all processing steps, gently but without stopping
- I always tilt the tank so that the chemicals are thoroughly mixed
- Shading during intermediate exposure looks different
- Never develop above 20°C due to the risk of emulsion separation
Question:
- Is the film lying flat in the spool grooves (no overlap)?
- Is the Bleach bath OK (doesn’t last long after mixing potassium permanganate and acid)?
Regards, Andreas
Oldschool
Hi Andreas,
I never tilt my bottle upside down, just at a 45-degree angle – could that be where I’m going wrong?
The film winds on really well; I’ve never tried it with a test strip in bright light, but it actually feels spot on.
I always add the acid to the potassium permanganate just before use.
Best regards,
Benjamin
AndreasD
Hi Benjamin,
45° is definitely not enough. Tilting means rotating by 180°. Only then are the chemicals mixed thoroughly enough to allow a uniform reaction to take place on the film surface. If the fog on your films is always on the bottom side, this strongly suggests that they aren’t being mixed sufficiently.
Best regards, Andreas
Oldschool
Right then, I suppose I’ll have to get a new lid for my Jobo – this one isn’t very watertight :(
Best wishes
Oldschool
Hi everyone,
Unfortunately, tilting the tank by 180 degrees didn’t make any difference. This time I used an Ilford Pan F.
Could there be something wrong with the fixer?
Thanks and best regards,
Benjamin
Oldschool
Hello everyone, I’ve freshly prepared the Tetenal SuperFix solution using the thinnest permissible concentration. The clearing time is currently 2 minutes. Unfortunately, there’s been no change in the image.
I suppose I’ll have no choice but to remove a section of film after bleaching. I’m reluctant to do this, but it shouldn’t affect the process. Perhaps the problem lies here or in the clearing bath.
Best regards
