stereograph
Hi everyone,
I’ve just developed two rolls of ADOX CHS 100 II 135 film
and I had a real struggle getting the film onto the spools.
I’ve never had this problem before.
Is this a known issue, and is there a solution?
Perhaps I should try a different spool?
I tried two AP spools, which didn’t work at all,
and an old transparent one without balls,
which managed to take the film with great difficulty.
I look forward to any tips
KlausWehner
The problem described is not specific to this film.
It happens from time to time that films are difficult to wind onto the spool.
There can be various reasons for this:
moisture or limescale deposits in the spool channels, the film being severely twisted, the film leader getting caught or jammed in the spool...
Here’s what you should bear in mind:
the reels should be dry and clean.
If the film is severely twisted, you can smooth out the start of the film against the twist.
The corners of the film’s start should be cut round (or folded over) so that they cannot get caught in the reel.
Best regards,
Klaus
stereograph
Yes,
that’s exactly the problem, unfortunately.
I’ve had this issue time and time again with this film.
At least five rolls now, probably from the same batch.
U91-0-R01/5105
So, thanks for your tips, but they’re not helping here.
The ADOX CHS 100 II 135 gets stuck on the spool after two turns
and won’t go any further;
that means with every new attempt
the film gets damaged when the spool is opened.
I’ve tried winding the film in from the front, the back, the top and the bottom.
It doesn’t run normally,
unlike all the other films I know,
even other ADOX films don’t have this problem.
I suspect (and hope) that the batch I’m currently using from Impex has a manufacturing fault
and that this will be resolved with a new batch.
I imagine that the sprockets on the ADOX CHS 100 II 135 feel rougher than those on the APX 400, for example,
and that might be the reason for the snagging in the spool.
I’ll wait and see for now and shoot something else.
Unless anyone recognises the problem and has a solution!
Please!!!! I love this film! :-)
Wolfgg
Hello,
Here are my tips, based on several decades of experience:
- Always cut the film between the perforations, never through them; round off the corners; and, whilst the film is still exposed to light, roll the leading edge against the grain until it lies flat.
- Use Jobo reels with a recessed grip, as this allows you to grasp the innermost coil of film and pull it into the reel. You do this by wrapping your thumb and index finger around the reel; your thumb then presses against the lower edge of the film, your index finger against the upper edge, thereby pushing the film forward.
That’s how I’ve managed to load every film to date, even the most stubborn ones, and that once included the Kodak Recording 2475 (31 DIN) with the ‘Estar-AH Base’.
Regards
Wolfgang
stereograph
We all know this already; I’ve been doing it for ages.
As mentioned earlier, the only thing to bear in mind with the ADOX CHS 100 II 135
is the loading process: always cut the film between the perforations, never through them; round off the corners; and, whilst the film is still exposed to light, wind the leading edge against the grain until it lies flat.
- Use Jobospirals with a recessed grip, as this allows you to grip the innermost coil of film and pull it into the spiral. You do this by wrapping your thumb and index finger around the spiral; your thumb then presses against the lower edge of the film, your index finger against the upper edge, and in this way pushes the film forward."
jonny
Unfortunately, I can’t offer any insight into whether there are any anomalies with the batch in question. So far, I’ve only used the CHS100-II with sheet film.
In my experience, problems when loading individual films onto the spools are often a sign of incipient soiling or the presence of contaminants from chemical and/or film residues.
If you can’t find a satisfactory solution, my final tip would be to get some stainless steel reels, preferably high-quality ones from Hewes. I believe there are even some designed for use with plastic tanks. Loading works differently to plastic reels; the film isn’t moved, but rolled from the inside out onto the reel. Once you’ve got the hang of it, it’s really dead simple. Problems with film getting stuck or being damaged are a thing of the past.
I now only use Jobo reels/tanks for C41; for all black and white films, I use stainless steel reels and tanks exclusively. Another reason is that, unlike plastic reels, these are much easier to keep clean in the long term. Rinsing with cold water is sufficient. With the Jobo reels, when I had a high throughput, I definitely had to get out the toothbrush and Kukident or Bleach bath every few months...
Wolfgg
... or with 5% hydrochloric acid (available from DIY stores), which eats away at everything, except the coil, of course.
Photux
The film is coated on PET, and I’ve had similar problems with that before – particularly with cameras that wind it on ‘backwards’ (Canon A-series). In those cases, waiting a few days after rewinding before developing helped.
Of course, there are other films coated on PET, but perhaps that’s the crucial difference here? I haven’t had such problems with classic triacetate yet – and not every PET base is the same, but I still avoid such material where possible.
