Film development errors, low density and dark clouds.

klausentreiben · 2018-01-05T00:10:53+00:00

Habe mit meinem Agfa Atoml 2 Komponentenpulver experimentiert und einen Versuchsfilm Ilford hp5 entwickelt. Ich wollte einfach ohne großen Schaden erste Erfa...

klausentreiben

I experimented with my Agfa Atoml two-component powder and developed a test roll of Ilford HP5 film. I simply wanted to gain some initial experience without causing too much damage. Mistake number 1. The negatives are covered in fog on both sides. You can make out the subject when held up to the light, but under the enlarger everything looks dull and grey. Mistake number 2. My film strips repeatedly show black clouds at intervals of about three frames, which are undefined and last for approximately two to three frames. Was the fault here due to improper distribution of the chemicals, or is it likely stray light when threading the film into the canister? I had to start and stop several attempts, and in between, place the film in the canister and switch on the light. I rule out extraneous light on the camera. I have heard of ‘static development’ without movement, whereby the film is developed for a period of time (in the order of hours) until all exposures have been fully developed. Is this an alternative if the exposure times can no longer be determined or the developer is simply too old?

Photux

Regarding Error 1: Are you sure the film has been fixed correctly? Is the film fresh or has it been stored for a long time? € Regarding Error 2: Black clouds at regular intervals sound very much like stray light to me, yes. A development error can be virtually ruled out; that would tend to result in lighter patches. € Regarding stop-and-go development and old developer: I haven’t had any success with stop-and-go development myself so far, though many swear by it. I think overdevelopment could still occur, but generally speaking, all the compensating developers I’m familiar with become more compensating the more they are diluted. So, with inaccurate exposures, stop-and-go development at a high dilution sounds like a good idea in principle. I wouldn’t use old developer, however, or only after a successful test (if its properties have already deteriorated significantly, I wouldn’t classify that as ‘successful’ anymore). Most developers aren’t so expensive that the hassle would be worth it. This certainly applies to fixers.

Magirus

Hello Re: 2. The black shaft in the box must always be fitted, otherwise light will enter the box. Regards, B

klausentreiben

Regarding Error 1: Are you sure the film has been fixed properly? Is the film fresh or has it been stored for a while? ? Regarding Error 2: Black clouds at regular intervals sound very much like stray light to me, yes. A development error can be virtually ruled out; that would tend to result in lighter patches. ?

Re 1. The film was fresh. I suspect I treated the film too harshly with the stop bath. Most people just rinse it or use a minimal amount of 5% acetic acid. I probably overdid it there because I used the 60% solution; presumably the fixer can’t do anything about it now. Specifically, what does unfixed film look like? Re 2. I agree with the previous commenter; when I stored the film in the canister, there was neither a rinse nor an axis inside. If you’re developing just one film in a double canister, do you insert both film spools, with the one containing the film at the bottom?

HenningH

You stopped the film in 60% acetic acid?? O_O Did you then fix it as normal? Unfixed film looks almost like wet, fresh film. That is, it has a very milky, cloudy coated layer. ? Regarding the second question: Yes. Spool with the film facing downwards, empty spool on top.

klausentreiben

Yes, I fixed it afterwards. But I suspect it just wasn’t effective enough. Next time I’ll buy fresh chemicals. Preferably the Ilford ones for Ilford films; then I hope the development times will be right. I’ve now got the Delta 100. Which developer would you recommend? Which fixer? I’ll stop the process by rinsing thoroughly.

HenningH

How exactly (fixer, dilution, time) did you fix the film? ? Atomal is actually a developer that produces good results with many types of film. It shouldn’t cause any problems. ? Similarly, you can fix all standard films perfectly well with a freshly purchased fixer. The brand doesn’t matter.

KlausWehner

In this case, so many mistakes have clearly been made that it’s hard to offer any advice at all. ? My advice would be: find someone who can show you how it’s done properly. I’m sure there’s someone in your area with a bit of darkroom experience who can show you the basics of film development. ? Where do you live? ? We can discuss details such as the right developer or which fixing bath from which company to use later on. ? Best regards, Klaus