ADOX Adonal + Rollei Rpx 400 development times

Nic · 2012-10-01T19:32:51+00:00

Hallo, würde gern mal den Rollei RPX 400 mit adox adonal entwickeln. Hat da jemand schon Erfahrungen gemacht? Welche Verdünnung und welche Entwicklungszeit...

Nic

Hello, I’d like to try developing Rollei RPX 400 with Adox Adonal. Has anyone tried this before? What dilution and development times would you recommend? Many thanks, Nic

Morte

Yes, me. I really like it. Digitaltruth only lists a single development time (8 minutes at 1+25 for Rodinal), but that made the film look terribly grainy when I tried it. So I simply adapted the time for the Tri-X: 13 minutes at 1+50. Absolutely wonderful results, in my opinion. And even at ASA 3200 (27 mins, though at 22 °C), it still produces surprisingly good images. It has more grain then, but it’s still lovely.

piu58

I’ve developed a few handfuls of RPX film. It works well with the Rollei RHS-DC developer. It’s also a single-use developer – affordable and easy to use. Perhaps not quite as long-lasting, though.

Wolfgg

Or something a bit more unusual: Rodinal 1+140 for 70 minutes at 20°C, agitation only in the first minute, then stand development; turn the tank upside down from the 23rd minute onwards and leave it to stand for the remainder of the time to ensure even development. This only works with large tanks (>800ml), as otherwise the amount of concentrate is too small and it is best to fill the tank completely (all air out). The time and dilution apply only to RPX400 and development to N (zone system). The high dilution reduces the otherwise quite high pH value of the Rodinal and suppresses the clustering typical of Rodinal, resulting in razor-sharp, low-grain, balanced negatives. Regards, Wolfgang

Olivinyl

Hello everyone, I was also planning to ask here about the development times for 1+50 Rodinal with 400 ISO film. I’ve only found the 8-minute time for 1+25 and a 20-minute time for 1+50. Has anyone actually measured the film in 1+50 Rodinal/Adonal at 400 ISO? Do the X-Tol times from the datasheet apply? 400 ISO 1+1 9.5 – 12 mins. 800 ISO 1+1 14.5 mins. Otherwise, I would have started testing the film next week using “Uwe’s film testing method”, developing and enlarging it. @ Uwe, nice post. Thanks! Best regards, Oliver

Ihagee1937

Yes, me. I really like it. Digitaltruth only gives a single development time (8 mins at 1+25 for Rodinal), but that made the film look terribly grainy when I tried it. So I simply adapted the time for the Tri-X: 13 mins at 1+50. Absolutely brilliant results, in my opinion.

? That’s exactly what I wanted to know. I’ve just tried it out, and it worked a treat. Thanks.

Magirus

Hello Ihagee1937 Just a quick question: have you compared the Rpx400 with other developers? What’s the grain like? Regards, Bernd

mattes

Or something a bit more unusual: Rodinal 1+140 for 70 minutes at 20°C, agitation only during the first minute, then stand development; turn the tank upside down from the 23rd minute onwards and leave it to stand for the remainder of the time to ensure even development. This only works with large tanks (>800ml), as otherwise the amount of concentrate is too small; it is best to fill the tank completely (removing all air). The timing and dilution apply only to RPX400 and development to N (zone system). The high dilution reduces the otherwise quite high pH of the Rodinal and suppresses the clustering typical of Rodinal, resulting in razor-sharp, low-grain, balanced negatives. Regards, Wolfgang

That sounds very interesting. After I managed to wipe off the emulsion from a film I’d left in the water bath, I’ve become a bit more cautious. The longer the film is wet, the more sensitive it becomes. On top of the 70 minutes in the developer, there’s also the fixing and rinsing time. A quick question: do you do anything to harden the films you develop for such a long time? Matthias

grommi

After I managed to wipe the emulsion off a roll of film I’d left in the water bath, I’ve become a bit more careful. The longer the film stays wet, the more sensitive it becomes. On top of the 70 minutes in the developer, you’ve got the fixing and rinsing times as well. Just a quick question: do you do anything to harden the films you develop for such a long time? Matthias €

I know the RPX400 quite well. I develop it, with an exposure of ISO 800, for a full 80 minutes at 24 °C in Caffenol-C-L, fix and rinse as normal, and then wipe the wet film with a kitchen towel folded into a V-shape. The film copes with this without any problems. I really like this film. After apparently being identical to the Kentmere 400 for a while (which I never liked), it’s now back to its original form. Thank God, or whoever. € € I haven’t had any problems with softened emulsion during long development times with any current film. The old Efkes and their relatives, so possibly also the CHS 100 II, are said to be sensitive in this regard. That said, the CHS 100 II otherwise beats its Efke predecessor hands down. A great film with perfect manufacturing quality. But that’s just by the way.

Georg

13 minutes at 1+50. Absolutely brilliant results, in my opinion.

€ Morte, did you agitate continuously? Inspired by your post, I tried the 13 minutes with a 1:50 ratio (ADOX APH09, which according to FOTOIMPEX is practically identical to Adonal/Rodinal), agitating continuously for the first minute and then every 30 seconds. I’m very happy with the negatives. Thanks for the tip in any case! Regards Georg

Olivinyl

Hi Georg, I’ve now calibrated the film using Adonal/Rodinal/R09 at a dilution of 1:50. Expose the film at 250 ISO, then develop for 14 minutes and 30 seconds. Agitate 15 times for the first 30 seconds, then agitate twice every 30 seconds for 5 seconds at a time. Best wishes, Oliver

Morte

€ <blockquote class="ipsBlockquote" data-author="Morte" data-cid="14787" data-time="1349121199"> <div> 13 mins at 1+50. Absolutely brilliant results, in my opinion.

€ Morte, did you agitate continuously? Inspired by your post, I tried the 13 minutes with 1:50 (ADOX APH09, which according to FOTOIMPEX is practically identical to Adonal/Rodinal), agitating continuously for the first minute, then every 30 seconds. I’m very happy with the negatives. Thanks for the tip in any case! Regards Georg € </div> </blockquote> Not continuously, but constantly for the first minute, then tilt 3–4 times every 60 seconds. That’s my method with Rodinal. I use your tilting rhythm with Atomal 49. But never mind: it’s the results that count! Glad to hear you’ve had similar experiences to mine.

Georg

Now I’m not really that happy with the negatives after all :rolleyes: The contrast isn’t great, and what surprises me most is the sky in all the films – that is to say, the contaminants. You can actually only see them when the sky is in the frame. Developed in Adox APH09, 13 minutes, agitated continuously for the first minute, then once every minute for 30 seconds. I had a total of 6 films in the canister. The Adox CHM 400 Pro (i.e. Ilford HP5) came out really well. The Rollei RPX 400 negatives have turned out bluish and are characterised by the defects as described and shown below. Does anyone have any idea what I might have done wrong? Thanks and best regards Georg € Here is a sample image

grommi

Hi Georg, As Uwe has already replied to you elsewhere, the film is significantly underdeveloped. The RPX400 requires a much longer development time than the HP5+, so developing both together in the same tank is bound to go wrong. The film really needs a vigorous development to ‘wake up’, but once it does, it turns out really well. I develop mine for quite a long time and at a fairly warm temperature in Caffenol-C. As for the spots, I’m afraid I can’t think of anything. Except that the very first batch of 120 film a few years ago had some nasty defects, but that should actually be a thing of the past. I’d still check with the manufacturer or distributor, though. The film base is dyed. This provides the not-quite-perfect antihalation protection, unlike with the HP5+, where an special emulsion takes care of that. It has to do something better to ensure people still buy it. Best regards – Reinhold

HenningH

Sorry for going off-topic: has it been confirmed who’s playing the HP5 yet? :o

grommi

Hi Henning, the HP5+ film isn't clear, but it looks much lighter than the RPX400 in my viewfinder.

HenningH

Right... *phew* I was starting to think everyone would agree that the crystal-clear carrier was the be-all and end-all.