Olivinyl
Hello everyone
I use Adofix to fix my 35mm films.
My method: I start the fixing process and, at the same time, place a piece of unexposed film of the same type in a tray, fixing both the developed film in the canister and the sample in the tray simultaneously.
If the film snippet looks clear to me, the film stays in the canister for twice as long. The canister is tilted once every 30 seconds.
Now, how would you prepare the fixer? 1+9 or 1+4? What is advisable?
With Tmax films, I’ve noticed that 1+9 is a never-ending story and the fixing time in the tray with the scrap takes almost 10 minutes. With 1+4, it’s about 6 minutes and the film remains in the developing tank for 12 minutes to fix.
Best regards, Oliver
pittyman
Hello Oliver!
You’re definitely on the right track with the two-bath fixing process. With T-Max (where the base turns pink), I fix for 4 minutes in the first fixer and 2 minutes in the second, both at a 1:9 dilution.
Fixing for longer doesn’t really make much difference. With T-Max, after proper fixing and sufficient washing, (in my case
usually 30 minutes or more at around 25 degrees). However, my experience with T-Max is based solely on TMY-2 roll film, i.e.
400 speed.
Conclusion: two-bath fixing & sufficient washing; the rest is just a matter of getting used to it and doesn’t interfere with enlarging.
Dirk
Olivinyl
Does the fixer lose its potency so quickly with a Tmax that I need two fresh batches of 1+9?
With 'conventional' classic emulations, I still apply the rule that the clearing time is double the fixing time.
Which is better? Not faster! 1+4 or 1+9?
Best regards, Oliver
pittyman
Hi Oliver,
I’ve been reading up online about two-bath fixing. The theory is simple, easy to understand and also very advantageous in the positive process,
especially when working with baryta paper.
The staining of the film base varies from film to film, as does the intensity. These differences
are also reflected in the various formats (135, roll and sheet film). With some films
staining remains, with others it does not.
Make sure your films are sufficiently fixed (too long is not good either – you can read up on this online or
in the relevant literature) and washed. What you end up with is simply
specific to the type of film used, but this is not a problem if processed carefully.
With my T-Max roll films, I can recognise insufficient fixing/washing on the one hand by a
slightly stronger pinkish tinge to the base, but above all by a slight yellowish/brown tinge
in the edges of the film. Otherwise, the base is clear and has no or only a slight pinkish
tinge. Adofix 1+9 should be absolutely sufficient!
Dirk
piu58
I use only a 1:4 dilution. The processing time is shorter, so the baryta settles more quickly, and the amount of waste that needs to be disposed of is kept to a minimum.
Olivinyl
Hello everyone
So, I’ve done a bit of research on the two-bath fixing process
The only benefit I can see is that I use fresh fixer twice and the fixing time stays well under 10 minutes.
I haven’t noticed any technical or visual advantages from doing this.
So, whether it’s a 1:4 or 1:9 dilution isn’t really relevant; it’s just the time that changes.
If I don’t over-fix, I’m not doing anything wrong or causing any damage.
In a 1+4 solution, I got the T-Max nice and clear in about 12 minutes at 20°C, but I always used a fresh batch of 1+4 for the T-Max.
The fixer I used was still enough to fix some APX, ASP, Lucky and Adox CHS films. Usually around 5 to 8 minutes.
That’s why I also put a film strip in the developing tank alongside the film to check the fixer’s performance.
I’m aware that the films need to be rinsed sufficiently, but I didn’t realise that the Tmax should be rinsed even more thoroughly. Of course, I’ve always developed it using the same rinsing method as for classic films. (Water into the tank and one tilt, water change with three tilts, water change with six tilts, water change with twelve tilts, water change with twenty-four tilts, and finally Mirasol 1+400 followed by another twenty-four tilts)
Should Tmax be rinsed differently, or should I rinse differently in general?
So far, everything has gone well; it just occurred to me that, for example, the CHS emulsion needs to be handled quite carefully and a stop bath should be avoided. I somehow overlooked this and used a stop bath stronger than 2%, and so far it has always gone well.
Hence the thought that if the fixer is too strong, it could also damage the emulsion.
Best regards, Oliver
hagee
Hello everyone
So, I’ve done a bit of research on the two-bath fixing process
The only benefit I can see is that I use fresh fixer twice and the fixing time stays well under 10 minutes.
I haven’t noticed any technical or visual advantages from doing this.
So, whether it’s 1+4 or 1+9 isn’t really relevant; it’s just the time that changes.
If I don’t over-fix, I’m not doing anything wrong or causing any damage.
In a 1+4 solution, I got the Tmax nice and clear in about 12 minutes at 20°C, but I always used a fresh batch of 1+4 for the T-maxe.
The fixer I used was still enough to fix some APX, ASP, Lucky and Adox CHS films. Usually around 5 to 8 minutes.
That’s why I also put a film strip in the developing tank alongside the film to check the fixer’s performance.
I’m aware that the films need to be rinsed thoroughly, but I didn’t realise that Tmax should be rinsed even more thoroughly. Of course, I’ve always used it and with the same rinsing method as for classic films. (Water into the tank and 1 shake, water change 3 shakes, water change 6 shakes, water change 12 shakes, water change 24 shakes and finally Mirasol 1+400 and another 24 shakes)
Should Tmax be rinsed differently, or should I just rinse differently in general?
So far, everything has gone well; it just occurred to me that, for example, the CHS emulsion needs to be handled quite carefully and a stop bath should be avoided. I somehow overlooked this and used a stop bath stronger than 2%, and so far it’s always gone well.
Hence the thought that if the fixer is too strong, it could also damage the emulsion.
Best regards, Oliver
Hi Oliver,
With T-MAX, this is how I do it: put the fixer in the tank, add the first piece of film to the fixer solution. Once that’s clear, add the second piece of film.
Once that’s clear too, the film is fully fixed. As I don’t want to wait, I use a rapid fixer from our host’s competitor. They surely have something quicker on offer than the apparently rather slow Adofix. Back to the film! It’s now fixed, but still pink. That’s the anti-halation layer, and I let it wash out by soaking the emulsion in tap water for about 5 minutes without moving it. After that, rinse as you like (I prefer the Ilford method), and everything is fine – that is to say, clear and transparent and no longer pink or even milky.
Best regards,
Hans
pittyman
Hi Oliver, go through the whole process, fix the TMAX as you
described at 1+9 for 4 minutes and hold it up to the light to have a look.
You don’t need to take it off the reel to do this, of course. You’ll
see the pink tinge anyway. I always pop my films, still on the reel, into a 5-litre plastic
bucket, in which I’ve made a 1mm hole in the bottom. I pour
water at around 20–25°C over them as needed; the fixer residue flows out the bottom.
The whole process takes about 30 minutes, at least for me.
If you hold the reel up to the light every 10 minutes, you’ll notice the
pink colour getting weaker and weaker. If you want it to disappear completely,
just rinse it for a longer time.
Such long fixing times were very rarely used!
Dirk
bernhardmangelsgmxde
The processing times seem far too long to me as well. Using fresh fixer (1+4; no longer Adofix...) at around €20, I seem to recall clearing times of less than half a minute for APX 100... Tmax 400 does take significantly longer, but even then I only get fractions of the times described here. I might give it a go with fresh fixer... hoping not to overdo it with the host’s hospitality by suggesting that one might try a different product...
Otto
To fix film, you should use a 1+7 dilution; 1+9 is usually too weak. For Tmax films, the two-bath fixing process mentioned earlier is highly recommended. Fix for twice the standard time in Fixer 1, then fix for the standard time in Fixer 2 without an intermediate bath. The pink colour should then have disappeared completely. The fixers can be reused. See, for example:
http://www.fotografie-in-schwarz-weiss.de/sw-fotografie/perfektes-negativ/18-negativentwicklung.html
Sections 3.5.2 and 3.5.3 or here:
http://www.fotografie-in-schwarz-weiss.de/sw-fotografie/kolumne/107-wollstein09.html
Best regards,
Otto!
Olivinyl
Hello everyone,
First of all, thank you for your contributions to this discussion.
I find it interesting just how varied the opinions and methods of use are.
I’ve just had a look at a few T-Max negatives that I fixed for about 12 minutes in a 1+4 solution and rinsed using the method I described.
There’s no hint of a pale pink tinge on them. They’re clear.
My concern was the Adofix 1+4 concentration.
I don’t use the Jobo Cascade for rinsing, even though I own one. The reason is the waste of water and energy. I have the option of heating the water very precisely using an electronic instantaneous water heater. The device balances pressure and flow rates so that there are no temperature fluctuations. But even in ECO mode at 20 °C, the device has a power consumption of just under 4 kW.
I don’t care about getting a bouquet of flowers from my energy supplier just because I’m such a good customer ;-)
Best regards, Oliver
TiMo
I’ve just mixed up some fresh Adofix 1+4. A Tri-X slide took 40 seconds to develop in the 20°C fixer.
I can’t imagine that the T-Max would take much longer.
VolkerSchulz
A 12-minute fixing time is far too long.
Incidentally, the pink or purple discolouration is not a sign of insufficient fixing, but is caused by sensitising agents in the film emulsion.
Any remaining dye residues in the film layer do not affect either the processing process or the shelf life of the negative. However, extending the fixing time can certainly have a negative impact on the quality of the negative.
I recommend searching the Phototec forum. A Mr Schneege (formerly of Ilford) once commented on this there.
Best regards,
Volker
piu58
I can’t imagine that the T-Max takes that much longer.
Yes, it does. The flat crystals contain a high proportion of silver
iodide
, which is much harder to process.
TiMo
I can't imagine that the T-Max takes that much longer.
Yes, it does. The flat-crystal films contain a high proportion of silver
iodide
, which is much harder to process.
Hi Uwe,
Good to know. Does the T-Max use up the fixer more quickly, or does it just take longer?
Cheers, Tim
bernhardmangelsgmxde
The clearing time is longer, yes, but not 10 times longer. For flat-crystal developers, the fixing time is often given as three times the clearing time. The fixer is also used up more quickly.
I can’t imagine that the T-Max takes that much longer.
Yes, it does. The flat-crystal films contain a high proportion of silver
iodide
, which is much harder to process.
Hi Uwe,
Good to know. Does the T-Max use up the fixer more quickly as well, or does it just take longer?
Cheers, Tim
piu58
Hi Uwe,
Good to know. Does the T-max use up the fixer more quickly, or does it just take longer?
Best regards, Tim
It takes longer; the capacity is the same.
It is said that iodide-loaded fixer also works more slowly with other materials that do not contain iodide. I cannot identify any chemical-kinetic mechanism for this. But the assumption is reason enough not to use film fixer for paper at the same time: because with paper, you cannot measure the clearing time.
Olivinyl
Hello everyone
So, I’ve got the hang of the T-Max. The development times are just under 15 minutes with Adofix 1+4 and 2 x 6 minutes with 1+7 and double fixing. In both cases, I rinsed the film using the Ilford method and gave it a final wash for about 10 minutes. The pink tinge has completely disappeared.
Now I’ve started printing my images onto paper. To start with, I’m using PE paper. However, I’ve also got hold of a few packs of baryta paper. Most of it is old paper that’s over 30 years old, but that’s perfectly fine for experimenting and playing around. The PE paper is between 5 and 10 years old.
I’ve read that for baryta papers, it’s better to use Adofix at a 1:4 dilution. For PE, 1:9 should be perfectly adequate. What do you think? I use a stop bath with an indicator between the developer and the fixer.
Testing the fixer:
I would test the fixer with a scrap of film. Put a fresh scrap of ASP 400 into the fixer (as I still have plenty of that) and note down the time. With Adofix 1+9, that would be 9 minutes until the film is clear. If it takes over 18 minutes, the fixer should be replaced. Have I understood that correctly?
I’ve seen that there are test strips available for testing the fixer. One test strip costs €0.30, which is almost half the cost of the fixer solution.
Or do you replace the fixer solution after every darkroom session? ...I’ve got a 10-litre canister of iron wool in my basement...
Best regards, Oliver
Tandemfahren
Hi Oliver,
You don’t need to start from scratch every time. I use the girls more or less out of laziness, because I’m not very good at counting along.
If you’re working with two fixed blocks, you don’t need to measure very often either. And 27.5
Olivinyl
Hi Oliver,
You don’t need to prepare a fresh batch every time. I use the measuring sticks more or less out of laziness, because I’m not very good at counting.
If you’re working with two fixing baths, you don’t need to measure very often either. And 27.5 cents isn’t expensive – it’s just that the fixer is cheap :-)
The first fixer, which is used more intensively, is also much better at filling the silver (I do this with dithionite).
If I may say something else about your papers: I’d get rid of the whole lot. YMMV, as always.
Have fun in the darkroom,
Frank
I’m too lazy to count as well...
But I don’t do a two-bath fixing. Just as mentioned earlier in the post regarding Tmax black-and-white film.
So which is it then? ;-) 1+4, 1+7 or 1+9? Film snippets or test strips?
Cheers, Oliver
