[quote name='Robert Van Brustum' date='Mar 20 2004, 08:31 AM']Hello,
I'm Flemish and I understand quite a bit of German, but I cannot write it. So forgive me for this post in English, but you can answer in German, no problem
My favorite film in the studio (flash light) is the EFKE KB25. I use it at 25 asa.
Found a good way of developing it with A49 : small tank (300mm), 1 film 1+2 - 8min45
first minute continuous agitation, then 3sec/30sec
Then I heard the film is a lot sharper in Tetenal Neofin Blau.
Tested this dev and got acceptable Negativen in a small tank (500mm) - 1 film - 15mm of product in a total solution of 500mm - 6min15 - 1 x 3 sec agitation per minute
The result in Neofin Blau is sharper allright, but it looks rather ugly. The greys aren't beautiful and there's something artificial about it. Especially with modelphotography you have a problem with this extreme "contour" Schärfe: the "errors" in the skin become very visible.
I never used a pre-soak in water for the KB25 (water bath of 1 minute before starting developing).
Can that have something to do with it ???
In case of a water bath, how does this affect your developing times ??
I hope I receive a reply from someone.
I also want to thank the guys with Fotoimpex - great to know there are more fellow darkroom freaks out there in this "digital" age.
Kindest rgds
Robert Van Brustum
[url="http://users.pandora.be/vanbrustum"]Artistic photography by Robert Van Brustum[/url][/quote]
Hey Roman,
thx for the explanation - I suspected it was something like that.
Similar story: PAN F at 50asa in Ilfotec DDX 1+9 gives you super sharp negatives, but again, an artificial Schärfe.
Then I'll go back to A49 for studio shoots.
As to the pre-soak in water; 1 minute water bath before developing. How does this work with KB25?
I thought adding 30 sec for a 1 film processing
Something pretty "sick": HP5 at 100asa, perceptol stock. Works excellent for night photography - super detailed !!
Thx for all Roman,
Robert
robert.vanbrustum@pandora.be
[url="http://users.pandora.be/vanbrustum"]Robert Van Brustum - Artistic Photography[/url]
I'm Flemish and I understand quite a bit of German, but I cannot write it. So forgive me for this post in English, but you can answer in German, no problem
My favorite film in the studio (flash light) is the EFKE KB25. I use it at 25 asa.
Found a good way of developing it with A49 : small tank (300mm), 1 film 1+2 - 8min45
first minute continuous agitation, then 3sec/30sec
Then I heard the film is a lot sharper in Tetenal Neofin Blau.
Tested this dev and got acceptable Negativen in a small tank (500mm) - 1 film - 15mm of product in a total solution of 500mm - 6min15 - 1 x 3 sec agitation per minute
The result in Neofin Blau is sharper allright, but it looks rather ugly. The greys aren't beautiful and there's something artificial about it. Especially with modelphotography you have a problem with this extreme "contour" Schärfe: the "errors" in the skin become very visible.
I never used a pre-soak in water for the KB25 (water bath of 1 minute before starting developing).
Can that have something to do with it ???
In case of a water bath, how does this affect your developing times ??
I hope I receive a reply from someone.
I also want to thank the guys with Fotoimpex - great to know there are more fellow darkroom freaks out there in this "digital" age.
Kindest rgds
Robert Van Brustum
[url="http://users.pandora.be/vanbrustum"]Artistic photography by Robert Van Brustum[/url][/quote]
Hey Roman,
thx for the explanation - I suspected it was something like that.
Similar story: PAN F at 50asa in Ilfotec DDX 1+9 gives you super sharp negatives, but again, an artificial Schärfe.
Then I'll go back to A49 for studio shoots.
As to the pre-soak in water; 1 minute water bath before developing. How does this work with KB25?
I thought adding 30 sec for a 1 film processing
Something pretty "sick": HP5 at 100asa, perceptol stock. Works excellent for night photography - super detailed !!
Thx for all Roman,
Robert
robert.vanbrustum@pandora.be
[url="http://users.pandora.be/vanbrustum"]Robert Van Brustum - Artistic Photography[/url]
