Hi Werner, hi Niall,
just an addition to Werner's posting. Normally only "earth" pin is connected to the housing directly. Only, if a malfunction occurs inside the apparatus, "life" might get into contact to the housing and will thus be "earthed" immediately. In normal status, "life" and "ground" will be connected to functional things inside, not to the apparatus' housing or parts belonging to it (like old radio's chassis). And thus, polarity is meaningless since we use AC.
If any malfunction occurs, power will go from "life" inside to "earth" of the housing, fuse melts, operator survives. Modern (german:-) installations will provide a so-called "FI-Schalter" ("earth leakage circuit breaker"?) controlling the difference in power between life, ground and earth. If there are some mA too much at earth, they will disconnect power source in milli-seconds. (Very nice if you want to use an earthed hairdryer while taking a bath:-) Not of real sense in most other cases anyway.)
Your question about adding a thermostate: I don't need one. I heat it up to about 60?C (until it slightly hurts when touching it, yes, chemists and cooks tolerate a bit more), pull the plug, put my print into it, close it, heat it up again until it hurts a bit when touching it on the outer side of the cloth and disconnect it from power. If it doesn't feel "damp" any more, I open it.
Every third print runs out in perfect glossy surface. Those two others get back into water and dried again.
Use wetting agent for your prints will help a lot. And keep your chromium plate clean! Never ever wipe it with anything. Simply clean it with wetting agent solution (or dishwashing agent) followed by pure alcohol (isopropanole, cheaper). Don't touch it.
"Ochsengalle" (don't know the english word for it) is mentioned in older publications but I have not tried out this yet.
Some plates won't work in any case. I do have one which never works. Don't know why. I won't pay for an TEM-EDX analysis on it. Synchrotrone-analysis is not cheap;-)
If you prefer "natural glossiness" be sure *not* to use any wetting agent and dry with emulsion side up to the cloth. It's important to get the press cold until taking off the print. Afterwards you may want to wax your print like some older photographers have written. Works great with german "Erdal-Schuhcreme, EAN: 4 001499 010651" or some of the older recipes (which are harmful).
Yours,
Franz
just an addition to Werner's posting. Normally only "earth" pin is connected to the housing directly. Only, if a malfunction occurs inside the apparatus, "life" might get into contact to the housing and will thus be "earthed" immediately. In normal status, "life" and "ground" will be connected to functional things inside, not to the apparatus' housing or parts belonging to it (like old radio's chassis). And thus, polarity is meaningless since we use AC.
If any malfunction occurs, power will go from "life" inside to "earth" of the housing, fuse melts, operator survives. Modern (german:-) installations will provide a so-called "FI-Schalter" ("earth leakage circuit breaker"?) controlling the difference in power between life, ground and earth. If there are some mA too much at earth, they will disconnect power source in milli-seconds. (Very nice if you want to use an earthed hairdryer while taking a bath:-) Not of real sense in most other cases anyway.)
Your question about adding a thermostate: I don't need one. I heat it up to about 60?C (until it slightly hurts when touching it, yes, chemists and cooks tolerate a bit more), pull the plug, put my print into it, close it, heat it up again until it hurts a bit when touching it on the outer side of the cloth and disconnect it from power. If it doesn't feel "damp" any more, I open it.
Every third print runs out in perfect glossy surface. Those two others get back into water and dried again.
Use wetting agent for your prints will help a lot. And keep your chromium plate clean! Never ever wipe it with anything. Simply clean it with wetting agent solution (or dishwashing agent) followed by pure alcohol (isopropanole, cheaper). Don't touch it.
"Ochsengalle" (don't know the english word for it) is mentioned in older publications but I have not tried out this yet.
Some plates won't work in any case. I do have one which never works. Don't know why. I won't pay for an TEM-EDX analysis on it. Synchrotrone-analysis is not cheap;-)
If you prefer "natural glossiness" be sure *not* to use any wetting agent and dry with emulsion side up to the cloth. It's important to get the press cold until taking off the print. Afterwards you may want to wax your print like some older photographers have written. Works great with german "Erdal-Schuhcreme, EAN: 4 001499 010651" or some of the older recipes (which are harmful).
Yours,
Franz
